Rome is known for its fascination with water and its beautiful fountains and baths were places where people of ancient Rome used to socialise and relax in. However, it’s rare to find a communal bath of the size as the Baths of Diocletian. Rightfully called the biggest imperial bath complex; the Diocletian baths could hold 3,000 people and it was designed by Michelangelo.
The creation of these baths that spanned over a huge plot of land (13 hectares) started around 298 AD and concluded only by 306 AD. The bath complex included a gymnasium, hot, cold and tepid baths (caldarium, frigidarium and tepidarium). During the construction phase of the baths in the 3rd century, thousands of Christian slaves died out of exhaustion and illness. The Baths remained open till 537 AD when the aqueducts were cut off by the Goths in an attempt to capture Rome.
The Baths denigrated steadily after that but right now they are a piece of valuable Roman history even if you discount the fact that a part of National Roman Museum is housed there. That’s right, there is much more to the baths than just the museum. It’s surprising to even imagine that once upon a time today’s bustling Piazza Repubblica, Roman Planetarium and a large chunk of land near the Termini station were part of the Baths. The Baths are about twice the size of the Baths of Caracalla which makes them the largest Baths of Ancient Rome though they aren’t as well preserved.
The uncovered portion of the baths has a cloister garden that’s full of 400 works of art that include statues, sarcophagi and reliefs. There are 2 cloisters with ancient archaeological fragments, statues, shrubbery and beautiful atmospheres while the museum building is a 16th century restored construct with 3 floors.
The museum is in a courtyard building that’s totally renaissance style with 3 floors; ticket office is on the ground floor. You can rent an audio guide for the museum and it will give you a clearer insight into pre-Latin Rome. In any case atmosphere inside the museum building is visitor friendly with air conditioning, elevators and even there are bathrooms inside. The entrance though lacks proper signage so you have to constantly look out for it and it faces the Termini station. You will find free large lockers near the entrance and all bigger bags and stuff must be left inside before you enter the museum.
Pale pink roses abound in the arbour that leads to the museum building and provides a wonderful introduction to the entry inside the museum. The garden also features a fountain with a vase-like design and a scattering of old column fragments and tombs. The museum facilities also include a vending machine that disburses snacks and cappuccino so you can spend some great time on the cloister/garden benches in peace. There is also a small bookshop with an enviable collection of books on history and ancient culture of Rome.
The Sections
Multimedia Room
There is virtual reality installation in here that allows visitors to explore reconstructed models of monuments and sites that used to grace Via Flaminia. It’s fascinating to see how ancient Rome must have looked like. There are interactive 3D displays that are a good amalgamation of the use of modern technology and ancient history. Look out for the introductory video that shows how the baths might have looked best.
Prehistory section
The upper floor of the cloister, this details the development of Latium culture from 11th century Bronze Age to Orientalising period (6th century BC). The archaeological exhibits here are from Rome and its adjoining area. You will find all kinds of exhibits there right from masks to ancient fabric to jewellery to earthenware to armour etc.
Section of Epigraphy
This modern building has 3 floors completely dedicated to 900 exhibits that show more than 10,000 inscriptions. Might be of interest to historians but is a little tedious for everyone else. The inscription translations in English are diligently mounted on placards though. In this section, there are a few antique shards of pottery and remnants of marble that refer to the origins of Christianity. There is a terracotta statuary too. Fans of the occult will enjoy reading the inscriptions about witchcraft, spells, imagery etc. Look out for some iconic exhibits like the ‘Memorial stone of the Forum’ and the ‘limestone crown from Palestrina’.
Aule Delle Olearie
These are the storage facilities commissioned by Pope Clement XIII in a few previous halls of the Diocletian halls. These massive halls numbered from 1 to 9 are uncovered and were inducted into the museum since 1911. Sometimes temporary exhibits are installed here and these are the only times the great halls are open to the public.
Aula Decima
The 10th hall of the Diocletian Baths reopened to the public after 30 years of massive restoration work. The 10th hall is also known as Aula Decima and under its high ceilings, you will find the Platorini Tomb that is housed here since 1911 though it was discovered in Trastevere. Two other chamber tombs with indigenous decorations lie inside. Remember that is a completely restored section of the Baths and not merely renovated. There are statues here too including a nice marble one of a young boy on a horse.
Though all sections of the Baths are not accessible to the public this is one small part that can be visited ….its impressively high ceilings that show how huge the building complex must have been. Visitors can also visit the well-preserved tombs. Recent restoration works done on the baths have unearthed an 80 sq. meter mosaic (one of the biggest in Rome) and this shows the mythical hero Hercules flaunting the horn he snatched from the river God Achelous head. The mosaic was discovered during the excavation of the Villa of Nero at Antium.
16th-century Charterhouse
This section occupies much of the area occupied by the swimming pool of the Diocletian Baths and is roughly half the size of Michelangelo’s cloister. The construction of this area is dated back to the 16th century. And it holds exhibits pertaining to royal Brethren and Secular Games apart from an interesting Travertine well. Exhibits on pre-Latin people and glass cases are filled with some sarcophagus and headless statues. Also, expect bronze and Iron-Age pots and pans and tomb accessories that look intriguing. A good place to see what Rome looked like before the Romans or the Latin tribe expanded and took over everything.
Michelangelo’s Cloister
This is a large and beautiful courtyard with lovely gardens and vintage sculpture and tombstones apart from Roman artefacts. There are sides measuring about 100 meters and 100 monolithic columns in this cloister. The cloister of the church of Santa Maria Degli Angeli Dei Martiri is mostly called Michelangelo’s cloister as the famous sculptor was asked by Pope Pius IV to covert the Hall of the Baths into a church and chapterhouse.
The cloister is a central construct and you can enjoy nice views of it from the upper floors of the museum. Many Roman families sit and relax here and this is an excellent place for contemplation and photography.
Santa Maria degli Angeli Church
The basilica (famously designed by Michelangelo) was to be built in order to honour all the Christian slaves who died… it’s housed in the Frigidarium of the Baths complex and is officially not a part of the museum. However, Michelangelo just made the layout and it was Giacomo Del Duca (his pupil) who created the actual architecture and that too after Michelangelo’s untimely 1564 death. Construction commenced in 1565 and ended around 1600 but the upper floor took until 1676 to be finished. The central fountain dates to 1695.
The cloister square has a 16th-century garden that flaunts outdoor displays of funerary sculptures and altar displays and ancient inscriptions. There are some massive animal heads that date back to the times of antiquity and were discovered near the Trajan’s column in 1586. The gorgeous marble floors and the beautiful stained glass windows deserve attention.
The nave of the church is 90 meters in length, 27 meters in width and 27 meters in height. Look out for the larger than life statues and the 8 monolithic red granite roof supports. Very few tourists get to know that this basilica houses the remains of Salvator Rosa, Aula Decima and Armando Diaz inside.
Look out for the beautiful meridian sundial dating to 18th century that was used to set Rome’s cocks for 150 years. The right side of the left transept leads to a small museum room that has placards demonstrating the history of the church and the baths. The most interesting part is the side door which you can quickly avail to take a close look at the ruins of the vast bath complex. Pigeons flutter around and it’s a really scenic place.
Church Phone: +39-06-488-0812. Church Website
The church has no admission fee and is open from 7 a.m. to 6. 30 p.m. every day. Exploring the church and its surroundings will take about half an hour.
Octagonal Aula
The last of the 4 halls near the Caldarium, this too was made into a grain store in 1575 and in 1764 it became an oil storage facility. The dome is remarkably intact and is the original version. This highly versatile hall was an exhibition site in 1911 and then was made into a cinema before being made into a planetarium in 1928. The webbing that you see inside the hall is a remnant from its planetarium days.
The hall was restored in 1991 and has a massive sculpture collection….all pertaining to bath sites all over Roma. Interestingly this huge brick room is a little removed from the main bath complex and is hailed by the Italian government as the 5th address of the National Museum. You will find the Aula Ottagona right near the Rome main tourist office. Look out for the magnificent Cupola that’s housed here and the ‘Aphrodite of Cyrene’ that’s a piece dating back to the age of Hadrian.
The Octagonal Aula doesn’t require an admission ticket but the Octagonal hall showcases dramatic 2nd century BC sculptures.
Aula Saint Isidore
This was originally a smallish square room next to a granary known as Annona in 1640. Since 1754 the Aula of Saint Isidore was converted into a chapel that was dedicated to Saint Isidore. This small chapel is found adjacent to the Octagonal Aulla.
Note:
Unlike the other more highlighted museums of Rome like the Vatican’s and top tier destinations like Colosseum, the Roman Museum (especially the Diocletian baths) aren’t usually crowded even in the first free Sunday of every month. Also unlike most of other Rome’s museums, the exhibits here deal with the lives of common people and not just priceless paintings, extravagantly decorated artefacts of Popes and kings and displays of wealth.
The Museum displays are about the lives of pre Latino people and how they evolved while the Baths are just a piece of the ancient history of Roma. A museum visit will show you a slice of local and ordinary Roman life as it happened in the days of yore.
Go to the museums for a relaxing experience and a closer look at Roman life in the pages of history. The Diocletian Baths take time to explore and cannot really be seen properly below a time investment of 3 hours. If you are in Rome for more than a couple of days, haven’t seen the Baths of Diocletian and have come with young children then take out some time to see it properly; it’s a worthy investment of time.
Location & Open Hours
Get down at Termini station and walk for a while before you reach the museum/ Baths or take the metro Line A to Repubblica and stroll for 3 minutes to reach the baths.
For ticketing information, refer to the article National Roman Museum. You will not need a ticket for visiting the Santa Mara Degli Angeli Church and the Aula Ottagona and these are probably two of the most interesting parts of the Diocletian baths.
Via Enrico De Nicola 79, on Piazza Dei Cinquecento. Phone: +39-06-477881. Website
The Baths of Diocletian are open Tuesday – Sunday: 9 am – 7:30 pm. It’s closed on Mondays.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.