Even by Roman standards, the history of Castel Sant Angelo is turbulent; its walls have seen way too much violence. And yet Saint Michael at its top gives it serene peace filled appearance and there is this lore that he actually saved Rome from being consumed by the plague. The monument bore two alternative names; Hadrianeum or Sepulcrum Antoninorum and right now it’s christened as a museum.
The attraction is known by the name… Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo; it’s one of the most popular national museums of Rome. The Castel Sant’angelo hasn’t been featured in any movies like other Roman attractions but Puccini’s celebrated work ‘Tosca’ uses the prison of the castle as a setting for its 3rd act. Also its passage de Borgo has been featured in Dan Brown’s ‘Angels and Demons’ book. A visit to the castle museum will satisfy all kinds of tourists; the spirituals, the architects, the history lovers, the artists and even seekers of gossip and intrigue!!
History
Incidentally the nearby Augustus Mausoleum (this was a century older) inspired the Castel Sant’angelo which started off by being Hadrian’s Mausoleum. The structure hosted the tombs of Hadrian emperor and all his successors till Caracalla. The construction of this mausoleum started off in 123 AD and finished in 139 AD during Antoninus Pius’s rule. In those times there was a square 89 meter base on which stood a large cylindrical colonnaded drum with a 64 meter diameter. An earthen tumulus bearing the statue of Hadrian driving a quadriga covered it.
Interestingly a bridge called Pons Aelius connected Hadrian’s Mausoleum to the other side of the river… this Bridge is now known as Ponte Sant Angelo. However the gorgeous angel statues were added by Bernini much later in the Baroque period. The ashes of Emperor Hadrian and his family were thought to be destroyed during the looting of Rome but they were later found to be housed in the St. Peter’s Basilica along with many other sacred relics.
By 270 AD the Hadrian’s Mausoleum had been considerably fortified thanks to the addition of Aurelian wall. At this point the mausoleum formed a part of the defensive wall around Rome. The mausoleum donned the tittle of a fortress in those times. Around 400 AD the castle became a formal military fortress. Later around 537 the castle suffered great harm when the protectors of Rome i.e. Procopius and his aides stood on top of the castle and threw decorative bronze states and statuary (and any other object that could be loosened) on the attacking Goths (Vitiges and army).
IN 540 AD a plague infected Rome and over the course of the next 50 years wiped off 100 million people. Things went to such a pass that in 590 Pope Gregory The Great undertook a penitential procession to pray for the plague’s end (a fatal plague was plundering Rome). He had the vision of Archangel Michael sheathing his sword and denoting the end of the plague. The epidemic miraculously stopped and that was when the structure got its name i.e. Castel Sant’Angelo or the castle of the angel Michael.
Another less favourable version of the story says that Pope Gregory actually led a procession to the Church of Santa Agata in Suburra where even Christians had begun worshipping a pagan idol. Supposedly the pagan idol was miraculously destroyed at the hands of the archangel Michael. This was only one of the many incidents of attack and destruction of ancient pagan worship places in Rome by Popes. However this was when the fortress got its name Castel Sant’angelo.
There have been 6 statues of Archangel Michael decorating its top and 5 got destroyed in some or the other calamity. 1 of them (made of bronze) was melted down to make cannonballs in the famous 1527 siege of Rome.
In 1277 the papacy took over the fortress and used as a refuge. It said that in 1367 Pope Urban V demanded that the castle keys be handed over to the papacy in return of the Curia to Rome. In 1453 the Castle Sant’angelo was fortified by the addition of 3 towers, rooms for storing oil and grain etc. Incidentally the castle towers are named St John, St Matthew, St Mark and St Luke. Later Pope Alexander VI built the 4th tower, moat, bastions, torture rooms and multiple prison cells.
There is even a hidden corridor called Passetto Borgo that joins Castel Sant Angelo with the Vatican… this was Pope Nicholas III’s idea. It said that Pope Clement VII and his troupe of Swiss guards fled by the corridor when Charles Bourbon’s army plundered Rome in 1527. Supposedly Benvenuto Cellini (sculptor and goldsmith) played a heroic role in defending the castle at that point before being imprisoned for many years.
The papal apartments were lavishly redecorated for their residents and a treasure house of Renaissance paintings is housed there. There were gorgeously furnished and frescoed rooms and a siege store that held 22,000 litters of oil and 350,000 kilos of grain. During the tenure of Paolo III Farnese some portions of the castle were decked up to resemble a real princely residence. There was also a centrally heated bathroom (rarity in those days). Several notable artworks were installed inside the fortress including a Chapel with a Madonna idol (created by Raffaello da Montelupo).
In 1536 the now famous Archangel Michael statue was created by the same sculptor. The original Madonna statue is now gone… you will be able to view a bronze replica of it that was created in 1753. Incidentally throughout the 16th to 17th centuries there was this really horrible custom of displaying the heads of executed criminals on the Ponte Sant Angelo Bridge… they were put on pikes and displayed between the angels
The solidity of its construction and the thick walls that exceeded 160 feet made the mausoleum a logical choice as a fortress. Naturally there were many fortifications to the exterior structure that include the bastions and the pentagonal wall and in those times the monument was called Forte Sant Angelo In fact many visitors will wonder at how the Castel Sant’angelo looks like a fortress from the outside and a palace from the inside.
A chunk of the castle was used as a prison and later the whole castle became an extended military barrack and prison in 1901 the castle was restored. It’s said that Giordano Bruno was held captive here for 6 years along with sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. The inner courtyard of the castle was also used for executions.
The museum came into existence in 1911 when the Castel Sant’angelo was used for the Universal Exhibition. In 1926 the monument became a Sculpture and Minor Arts Museum. Many collectors and aristocrats donated artwork and exhibits and the museum makeover can be credited to Mariano Borgatti (the 1st director of the castle). Till 1970 mostly military equipment, ancient weapons, war antiques etc. were housed there and it was not until 1979 that the artsy renaissance section was refurbished and frescoes repaired. This was also when a rich sculpture collection was added to the museum. The halls of Alessandro VI got its first permanent exhibition space featuring the extensive history of the museum.
If you notice carefully you will see that the Castel Sant’angelo has been used continuously for some or the other purpose. It’s one of those rare Roman monuments that has not ever fallen into disrepair.
What to See and Do
Though the Castel Sant’angelo has a long and interesting history, most of the exhibits inside now relate to the period when the structure was converted into a fortress and a military base and then later as a papal residence.
Notice the huge entrance decked up in yellow marble and flanked by a mound of trees that bear a large bronze quadrille led by the king Adriano (referred as Sun King).
There is a free audio app that you can use to explore the castle-museum but it’s really not required since the signage is plentiful and very clear. You can rather take a paid guided tour to understand the fascinating history of the place in a clearer way.
Notice the ‘rampa elicoidale’ i.e. the stone ramp (original and dates back to 2nd century) that can directly take you to the upper terraces (2 of the top floors are actually terraces). The entry is through Hadrian’s Tomb and you will notice that the ramp will become a staircase at some point and then a catwalk as it winds through the travertine section of Hadrian’s burial chamber. As you go deep into this building you will practically be walking uphill but somehow you will feel that you are descending into the other world… the emperor Hadrian’s burial chamber was once richly decorated but now only the marked spaces for the sarcophagi remain.
Today the Castel Sant’Angelo has 7 levels (1 underground level, 5 floors and the open terrace) that are accessible via the same stone spiral ramp. Each level is supposed to depict a separate part of Rome’s history. The first level has the courtyard and the second level represents the original mausoleum where Hadrian’s urn was once kept. Many believed that the urn and its priceless contents were destroyed when Rome was looted but later it was found to be securely kept. The mausoleum, helicoidal stairs, room of the urns and the dromos are all refurbished but remain faithful to the original design dating back to Emperor Hadrian’s times.
The treasury room still holds huge iron lock boxes though its contents (documents and treasures) are now gone. This room has a secretive cell with its intricate brick floor and dark wood cabinets. Originally the urn of Hadrian’s ashes was believed to have been kept here.
A smallish courtyard in the north east corner of the castle was the site where sensitive capital punishments in Rome were carried out.
The third level was used extensively as a prison before it was converted into a warehouse and then a storage place. The 4th level was used both by the military as well as the papacy. This is one of the most important levels of the castle… almost 58 rooms here hold paintings, weapons and priceless antique furniture. Look out for the ‘armour rooms’… they have some interesting exhibits ranging from 6th century BC Etruscan gladiator helmets to 1900 dated officers’ uniforms to deadly swords, daggers etc. There is a pair of magnificent 16th century revolvers with ivory handles.
The fifth level is extremely beautiful and used to be occupied by the papacy. You will find amazing frescoes here most of which are made by the students of the School of Raphael while some are made by Guilin Romano. Floors 3 to 5 are known as the Renaissance apartments and these are the most sumptuous and well preserved part of the building. Look out for the princely apartments of Paolo III Farnese and the frescoes created by Perin Del Vaga and Pellegrino Tibaldi. The audience room is particularly noted for its stucco, mosaic and fresco work…
The Cagliostro is one of the most interesting environments inside the museum though it has restricted access. It lies just above the Loggia of Pope Paul III and has a main room flanked by 2 dressing rooms named ‘room of the stork’ and ‘room of dolphin’. This place is a high class prison that was redecorated to host special upper class inmates like Count Cagliostro (who inspired its name). The fantastic frescoes by Luzio Luzi that decorate this place will leave you in no doubt of the lavish amenities enjoyed by the ‘prisoners’. Incidentally Cagliastro was a counterfeiter who masqueraded as a Count. Other famous prisoners include the adventurer Giuseppe Bori, astrologer Giordano Bruno, Pope John X, Pope Leo V, Pope Stephen VI etc.
Amongst the papal apartments the Chamber of Cupid and Psyche with its gorgeous ceiling frescoes depicting the story of Cupid and Psyche is particularly beautiful. The Loggia of Julius that was built in 16th century overlooks the Tiber River and the lovely Ponte Sant Angelo… also noteworthy is Loggia of Paul III whose frescoes depict the life of King Hadrian. The Pauline Hall was used by Paul III as an entertainment space, it has extravagant displays of gilded ceilings, ornate stucco work, coloured marble floors, papal emblems and heavily embellished panels.
Look out for the Courtyard of the Angel… this has Raffaello da Montelupo’s marble statue of Michael the Archangel along with shrine of Leo X. Then there is the Courtyard of Alexander VI that now hosts the history of the castle exhibition through object, map, painting and statue exhibits.
The sixth level has the famous Treasure Room holding the best paintings and frescoes apart from a library containing some rare books. The Library Room has an extremely beautiful frescoes covered vaulted ceiling. Look out for the passage that leads to the library room….it’s called the Pompeian corridor and it joins the library to the Pauline Hall. The Pope’s Study or the Perseus Room with its startling red walls, heavy wood furniture and coffered ceiling is also an important stop. The frescoes with maidens and unicorns and the mythical Perseus are worth admiring. The Room of Apollo by contrast is white and has a lovely panelled ceiling decorated with motifs related to Apollo.
Finally the seventh level has the famous Archangel Michael statue. This i.e. the top floor has an amazing terrace with an equally amazing bird’s eye view of Rome. Look carefully and you will be able to see the Spanish Steps, Coliseum and a view of the St. Peters Basilica.
The secret passageway Passetto di Borgo is unfortunately closed to the public. Fans of Dan Brown will remember the mention of this passage in the book “Angels and Demons”. The centrally heated bathroom i.e. Stuffetta di Clement VII is also closed to the public along with the renaissance prisons. These areas can only be accessed as part of special tours.
After your sightseeing you might feel like an impromptu picnic. The small shaded free to enter Parco Adriano will be perfect for this purpose.
Points to note
Most of the artwork on display inside the museum today dates back to 1900 when the castle got the ‘museum status’. This was when wealthy roman aristocrat collector families like Mario Menotti and Contini Bonacossi donated antique paintings and furnishings to the museum. In fact many of the Papacy apartments were furnished using these donated valuables.
The spiral ramp inside the museum is 400 foot in length and is designed to minimise discomfort while ascending the levels. However the museum upper levels are not wheelchair friendly.
There are papal imagery and shields all over the Castel….note the fleur de lis, Bees of Barberini , Medici Balls and Borgia Bulls; signage of the various Popes who dwelt here.
On your way out of the museum there are some un-illuminated alcoves on the left. Peek inside with your mobile torchlight and you can see architectural models of the Castel Angel across different eras.
You will require at least 3 to 4 hours to appreciate the Castel Sant’angelo properly. Exploring all levels in equal detail might take the greater portion of a day. If you are in a rush just take in the sights at the renaissance apartments and the gorgeous views at the top.
A lot of the museum space has been freed to host temporary and permanent exhibitions that focus on the facets of this extraordinary place. However this has reduced the number of actual museum exhibits.
Obviously the best time to visit this museum is during the Notti d’Estate festival that’s held each year from July to September. During the summer nights (apart from Monday) there are interesting thematic free guided tours of the place. There are also jazz concerts, theatre performances and classical music shows. Some of the famous arists who have held exhibitions here include Luis Bacalov, Gloria Campaner, Roberto Taufic, Giorgio Albertazzi, Paolo Fresu, Danilo Rea, Francesco Leonardi and Daniele Di Bonaventura, Gabriele Mirabassi. The icing on the cake is that the passetto, heated bathroom of the popes, historical prison and the palace mill are open to the public in these months.
Once inside the museum stop at the café on the second level to sip a coffee or an aperitif and enjoy the historical atmosphere.
Of course a walk through the Ponte Sant Angelo is in order either before or after visiting the museum. Admire the 2 angel statues here; each of them bear some relic of the passion of Christ. Out of these the Angel holding the Crown of Thorns was created by Bernini himself. These statues are however replicas…the original ones (there were 10) were moved to Sant’andrea delle Fratte church where these marvellous works of art could be protected from the elements.
The museum isn’t open every night but ideally you should visit twice; once in the daytime and once at night for experiencing two completely different atmospheres. Simply walk on the bridge and admire the castle from the outside with all its lights on.
Open Hours, Tours & Tickets
The Castel Sant’Angelo museum is open from 9 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. every day apart from Mondays. On Fridays the opening hours are extended till 10.00 p.m. The museum remains closed on Christmas, New Year. From June 24th to September 17th the Castel Sant’angelo is open till midnight on account of the summer festival (last entry allowed at 11 p.m.).
Ask for the ‘Secret castle guided tour’ at the ticketing office inside. This will let you view restricted areas like the historical prisons, Olearie, Stufetta di Clemente VII and the Passetto di Borgo. The English tours are usually conducted a 10.00 a.m. and 4.00 p.m. daily but you need to confirm this at the ticketing office.
Unfortunately the Castel Sant’angelo is not a free attraction. There is a 16 euro ticket for adults and an 8.50 euro ticket for youngsters within the age group 18 to 25. Anyone under age 18 can see the attraction for free provided they have valid ID and age proof. The museum castle is also free to visit on the first Sunday of every month i.e. Domenica al Museo… of course the crowds are humungous on these days.
However if you have a Roma Pass or an Omnia Vatican Pass then you can get a free skip the line ticket to Castel Sant’Angelo. If you have a Rome City Pass then you can get a 20% discount on the ticket price.
You can find various options for entry and tours of Castel Sant’angelo (including combination tours with other attractions) and book online from this Viator site.
Try to visit on days in which the sunset could be admired from the terrace; this will make for a memorable experience.
Location and Conveyance
Castel Sant’angelo has a very convenient location… it’s easy to visit from both sides of the Tiber River. The neighbourhood is Rome’s Borgo or the Vatican City’s front yard. There is an unmistakable holy vibe around as Swiss guards in colourful uniforms, nuns and priests in frocks saunter around and the nearby shops sell a great deal of crucifixes and holy bead souvenirs.
Two of the most famous zones around are Piazza Navona and Vatican and getting to the castle converted museum is ten minutes from either of them. If you want aesthetics then walk across the lovely Ponte Sant Angelo while admiring the angelic white statues (created by Bernini) on either side of the bridge. You can also take the ‘A’ Metro line and get down at Ottaviano or Lepanto; both are just a ten minute walk away from Castel Sant’angelo. Hop on Hop off buses will drop you right near the Ponte Sant Angelo. There are bus stops right outside the castle museum (Orazio/ Crescenzio) and some buses (23, 34, 49, 64, 87, 280, 492, 926 and 990) stop there.
Address: Lungotevere Castello 50, Vatican / Borgo. Official Website
Ticket office phone. +39 06 6896003
Switchboard phone: +39 06 6819111
Email: [email protected]
Once you are done visiting the monument and the museum within its walls you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to dining options. Cross the bridge and explore Piazza Spagna and Piazza Navona…they are teeming with good places to eat. However, right next door to Castel Sant’angelo there is the unobtrusive but locally popular Ristorante Berninetta where there is excellent Italian food and friendly patient waiters. Try the pastas, pizzas and the artichoke based dishes…you won’t be disappointed. The fashionable T Bone Station is the best place to go to if serious burger and French fry cravings hit you!!
Some amazing attractions that are within easy walking distance of the Castel Sant’angelo are St Peters Basilica, Vatican Museums, Augustus mausoleum and the Pantheon. This being said, the St Peter’s basilica and Vatican museums require a lot of time investment and so does Castel Sant’angelo; not really advisable in a single day. Combining any of the other attractions with the museum-castle is a good idea.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.