The fact that people living in Cork think that it’s the best place in the world may be a little hard to digest. However, once you look deeply into the city and indeed the whole county…you might just end up joining the same club. Cork sits on an island that’s right in the middle of the giant Lee River and is known for its sense of humour and easy-going attitude.
Despite being the “second city” of Ireland, Cork moves at its own pace and its citizens have their own distinct style in everything, be it music festivals or garments or beer.
Attractions and Activities
Just 12 minutes away by foot from the bustling St Patricks street in Cork city centre is the gorgeous St Fin Barres Anglican Cathedral with its angel perched on top that’s a landmark of Cork. This was conceptualised in 1862 by the famous architect William Burghes and his designs were a product of years of research from design ideas sourced from across the world.
In that era, a church worth 100,000 pounds was a huge deal but the church came out looking outstanding with the external structures made of cork limestone while interiors are made of cork marble. Resplendent stained glass windows, many exquisite statues and nine carved heads mark the church.
Another even more ancient church lies on the other side of the Lee….the 1722 built St Anne’s church. The original 18th-century bells are still there and so is its dual stoned limestone façade (red on north-east and white on south-west). Pay a visit and learn about the internal workings of the clock and inspect the historical bells up close. The balcony allows spectacular city views… if you can visit on a Sunday you can hear the delightful choir performance and hear the organs play. Some say that it’s the most gorgeous cathedral in Ireland. Look right across the street and you will see the Bishop’s home.
Another attraction that is usually visited with the cathedral and fort is Nano Nagle’s place. She founded the association “sisters of the presentation of blessed Virgin Mary” in Ireland and was the pioneer of Catholic education in the country. Right in the centre of Cork, there is this oasis of gardens, heritage centre, restaurant and gift shop (sells books too). Take the internal tour…it will expose you to the scope of Nano Nagle’s vision. The garden is perfect for walks and meditation and the restaurant serves delicious healthy food (kid-friendly too) all day long.
Right in the heart of Cork city in Ballyphenane is Elizabeth Fort that’s an ancient British style fort that later became barracks for the police and then again was converted into a prison housing female convicts. It was burnt down badly by the IRA during the revolution. Notice the guns and cannons here and the fact that they are pointing towards the city…the fort inmates were fighting against the city and not for it. Read the placards and listen to the tour guide…it will enrich your Irish history knowledge. The writings on the placards have liberal doses of Irish humour and the entire tour is free. …the cathedral is very near so both attractions can be seen in one walk.
The O Connell Square with the Cork Butter Museum is nearby. Don’t forget to pop in and look at the super interesting video that tells you all about the butter trade and its history in Ireland. The museum is not big or glamorous but there are many interesting exhibits. It’s fun to look at how butter was made in a manual style. By this time you would have guessed that Cork was spearheading the butter industrialization and standardisation process that helped Ireland grow its economy fast. The guide inside will tell you all about the myriad of Irish folklore surrounding butter….the gift shop is interesting too.
From here you should move on to Convent Avenue that has the historical City Gaol that dates back to 1824 and was operational tile 1923. This was incidentally an all-women’s prison though men who rebelled against the 1920 Anglo Irish treaty were also buried there….the atmosphere of gloom and an eventful past still hangs around.
The Crawford Art Gallery with its impressive collection of sculptures, prints and paintings along with rafts, stained glass and ceramics is undoubtedly one of the top attractions in the city. Look out for the exceptional greek-romanesque casts made by Antonio Canova and the Irish sculpture that dates back to the 19th century. The painting collection has exhibits ranging from the 16th century to the present and there is a special section exclusively for female painters and sculptors. If you are lucky you will arrive in time for a free workshop, interactive session or presentation.
Another great gallery worth exploring is the Glucksman that’s an incredible construct of steel, limestone and timber. There are three floors in this amazing building that display the best of international and national art including some dramatic installations. The design of the gallery has won multiple awards and it was created by the Tuomey and O Donnell architects. There is a shop inside that sells amazing gifts with an Irish designer edge. Also, there is the in house Bobo Café that’s at the riverside level overlooking the Cork university grounds….the menu there is eclectic and seasonal.
If the weather suits you then fill yourself up with some fresh Irish air as you enjoy the longish walk along the marina to the Blackrock Castle turned observatory with a planetarium that happens to be inflatable. The Blackrock area is important historically as well. The planetarium is good but small and if you are with kids this is the place to give them a good lesson in astronomy. Children will especially like the “send a message to space” option.
The marina is lined with trees and during your walk, you can observe people rowing, cycling and strolling here… it’s sort of a social hub. You can also use the old railway line for walking…this runs from Blackrock station to the city. The Dundanion Castle overlooks the marina too but it’s hard to access this ruined 16th-century structure. William Penn started his journey to America from this point and he went on to discover the state of Pennsylvania.
If you happen to be in the Blackrock area on a Sunday then don’t miss the Weekend Farmer’s Market….it happens on the village square. The exploration of Blackrock and its attractions will probably take a day…just catch a bus (202/ 215 probably) to get here from the city centre.
One of the most popular day trips you can take from Cork is Cobh that’s a lovely port town with a famous history. It was an important emigration port of Ireland and served as the last port of call for the sunken giant…Titanic. Go to any of the white star line offices and you can hear the story told prettily in the “Titanic experience”.
East Cork County has many attractions like the Fota Wildlife Park full of gorgeous cheetahs and the heritage town of Youghal (Moby dick was filmed here). There is the scenic village of Ballycotton that’s a 35-minute drive from Cork…. there are plentiful beaches and seafood restaurants here. You can take a walk along the 5 miles long lovely Ballycotton cliff and follow the route from the beach to the Ballyandreen beach. The path will meander between the lush Irish countryside meadows and the cliff walk that flanks the beaches under it. You will not be able to put your camera away.
Or you could take a short journey to Blarney Castle that’s also a tiny drive away from the city. This medical complex has ferocious dungeons, fragrant gardens and scope for a lakeside walk. Then you can visit the Blarney Stone which when kissed apparently endows the kisser with the gift of the gab. Don’t miss the wishing steps, witch stone and badgers cave and peek into the kitchen of the witch. You could also shop for quality Irish sweaters and crystal artefacts at the Blarney woollen mills that are just nearby.
Or you could go a little further out to Kinsale that has excellent seafood and the famous old head golf links. The rambling 17th century Charles Fort is also nearby.
Food and whiskey tour activities are popular in Cork. Travel to east cork county towns like Middleton that offer the famous Jameson Irish whiskey tour and take a guided tour of old Middleton distillery. Youghal with its celebrated Ballymaloe House (arguably Ireland’s best country house) offers yet another incredible food and culture experience.
Or you could move to West Cork county towns like Baltimore that offers giant plates of seafood to visitors on yachts who are off to explore the pretty islands of cape clear. Kinsale is another popular stop on the food trail with its popular annual food festival which sees global traffic.
Scenic walks are an enjoyable activity in rural and semi-urban areas under Cork County. Right from Ring of Beara to Kinsale to areas in the rugged west; Cork brims with walking choices; rent a car and get to your destination and then start walking.
Food and Drinks
If you are acquainted with Irish gastronomy you will know that the whole of east Cork is a food and spirits hub. In fact, many tourists especially go on food tours encompassing Middleton. Cork calls itself the food capital of Ireland and a trip around its restaurants and bars will convince you too.
A trip to the English Market should be the first thing to do in Cork… after all this is Europe’s best food market and the jewel in the gastronomy crown of Cork. Established since 1788, this has stalls selling handcrafted chocolates to artisanal cheese to fruits and vegetables.
Some of the food you should definitely buy from Cork is fresh farm cheese from Durrus, Milleens, Gubbeen and smoked meat from Frank Krawczwyk, Woodcock Smokery and Ummera and chocolates from O Conaill’s. Also, taste Skeaghanore Duck and the black pudding from Clonakilty. These are some of the finest protected origin foods from Ireland.
Cork is distinctive and you will understand this when you see that the quintessential Irish favourite Guinness is not so favoured here. The county Cork loves its own brews like the Beamish and Murphy (delish Irish stouts) which can be traced back to 150 years. A great place to visit is the Franciscan Well Brewery that was built on the exact site where a Franciscan monastery stood in the 12th century. Savour the Shandon stout, blarney blonde and rebel red. In the city outskirts, you will find the Eight Degrees Brewing Company that sells fantastic local brews. Otherwise rambling around the microbreweries like Elbow Lane and Rising Sons would also be a nice experience.
Café Paradiso is a fine dining paradise and more so if you are a vegan. Presided by Chef Cotter, each dish here is meatless and incredibly fresh and delicious…it won the travellers choice awards multiple times. The produce is sourced from a farm that’s just outside the city.
Another great fine dining place is Greene’s restaurant on Mac curtain road…this one has exquisite 3-course meals, private booths and superlative service. You will probably get complimentary truffles at the end of your meal and free lime and green tea at the beginning. Wear your best outfit and try the trout and crab starter, mushroom risotto, beef feather blade, chocolate tart. The homemade salty bread and butter is awesome. The “amuse bouche” with chilled wine really gets the mood going…full marks for presentation.
Near the Cork College, there is Hayfield Manor Perrotts Garden Bistro that serves world food in an elegant setting. Sit in the glass room surrounded by gardens and try the Perrott burger, Caesar salad, fish and chips, duck etc. everything from food and wine pairings to the cheese board is lovely.
The Farmgate Café is on every Ireland citizen’s best restaurant list….it serves only traditional Irish food including some rare recipes. Think seafood chowder and lamb stew that has been slow-cooked for hours. The Market lane on Oliver Plunkett Street has great steaks and awesome monkfish dishes. There are 2 floors and outside seating too but almost everything is full even on weekdays. On Princes Street there is the Quinlans seafood bar …it serves amazing marine specialities. The best stuff is sizzling crabs, salmon fillet, oysters and scallops and of course fish and chips.
Nash 19 sells and makes all dishes from freshly sourced local produce…its buttermilk scones are kind of a local legend. Tony’s Bistro serves great Irish fry ups (a variant of the English breakfast fry up) and they have this gargantuan breakfast challenge that can blow your mind. There are around 8 sausages, 6 oz. steak, a portion of pudding 6 rashers, hash browns, 2 chips bowls, 2 fried eggs, bean bowls, crisp mushrooms, onion rings, butter-fried tomatoes, soda bread and coffee. Finish it all in 2 hours and it’s free.
And if you seriously love your food then step out of the city and visit famous towns like Cobh (frank hederman’s smokery), Middleton (Ballymaloe), Kinsale (fishy fishy café), Ballylickey (Mannings emporium), Kanturk (Mc Carthy’s) etc. They are all a short drive away from Cork and all of them are food hubs in their own right. If you ever visit Blarney village that’s pretty nearby, try the Old Cork Post Office (actually an eatery) where you get great Hallomi salad and coffee inside a garden setting.
Nightlife
Cork is lively, fun and light-hearted. Nightlife here primarily constitutes of pub hopping, listening to great music and downing Irish stouts.
The centre of Cork has some great pubs like Readrdans, Bar Rumba, An Crannog and An Brog. Other places to look out for are The Oyster, Le Cheile and the Bodega. This cluster of bars and pubs are off Patrick Street and all of them have live music. You can do your own pub crawl and hop into each of them… they are all within walking distance from each other.
For a truly old Irish pub feel go to Sin-e ….locally considered to be an original Irish establishment. On weekends a quaint band of 12 musicians play in the back room. Hi B is another local establishment that’s non-touristy… see all age groups (of legal drinking age) revelling inside together. For listening to old school Irish music and not the usual club playlists go to Ovens Bar and An Bodhran that have only traditional Irish food and drinks with country music.
Costigan’s pub on Washington Street began as a fishmonger back in 1849 and right now is one of the oldest and best nightspots. They offer a loyalty card too… gulp nine drinks and the 10th is free so if you are around for a couple of days take the card. The service and the beer are great and if it rains order a warm toastie.
Shelbourne bar is the place to go if Irish whiskey is your poison. This is a classy place serving a wide range of Irish whiskeys and there is an open fire inside when Celsius dips. And if breweries are your thing then Franciscan Well, Rising Sons and Heineken Ireland are the best destinations.
The other great option for enjoying Cork nightlife is to have fun in a comedy club. Right opposite the Sin E pub on Cobourg Street is Cork City Limits Comedy Club which has intimate seating and excellent Irish comedy acts. Look out for Mac Savage and Foil, Arms and Hogg, Ross Browne and their fraternity…laugh till the wee morning hours. CCCahoots Comedy Club is an alternative comedy destination on Mac Curtain Street and the Coco Club (upstairs of Roundy Bar) on Castle Street is another nice comedy venue.
The nightclub scene in Cork is not very promising as most people prefer going to Irish pubs for entertainment. Sky Bar now known as SUAS rooftop bar is suave, has sofas and a great dance floor.
Shopping
Shopping in Cork is more about distinctive boutiques, traditional craft and farmers markets than glossy retail stores. It is the former category that you should explore with delight when you are in the delightful original county.
Start off with exploring the farmers’ markets and shopping for cheese, chocolates, mushrooms, cured meats, pickles etc. that you can tow back with you. Apart from the iconic English food market in Cork city, there is the Clonakilty Farmers Market on top of Mc Curtain Hill that has a food and craft version on Saturdays apart from the regular food market. Usually, these run from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
The Middleton Farmers Market, Skibbereen and Bandon Farmers market are a short drive away from Cork city…the entire Cork county is a food and fresh produce heaven.
Next, hunt around in independent boutiques. Moda Mallow in Bank Place is run by Aoife Myler who curates creative fashion from across the world. Personalised fashion and the availability of curated brands like French Connection, Avoca, Selected Femme etc. are the highlights here.
Samui, right in the middle of Cork city is near Opera Lane and sources directional labels from abroad and native Ireland. Find fashion created by upcoming legends like Alexander Wang, MSGM, Danielle Romeril and Peter Pilotto. Shop for Belgian footwear, Austrian beanie hats and dazzling Swarovski ….basically hard to find pieces.
Brocade and Lime on Cornmarket Street has been praised highly by Elea and it stocks vintage wear created by modern designers. There is a beauty parlour inside too and the boutique rests inside a Victorian townhouse. The kimono in Bishop Street has a French boudoir kind of décor and serves classical fashion with a modern twist. You will find Malene Birger, Gerard Darel, Tara Jarman etc and some international labels like Brazilian Lucidez.
Then you can raid craft stores like the Lavit Craft Collection that has work done by woodturners, ceramic artists, glass blowers, sculptors, embroidery specialists etc. In case you are a budding artist yourself then bring creative art supplies from Cork Art Supplies on Princes Street. If you are venturing out of Cork then West Cork crafts in Skibbereen and the Craft Shop in Bantry are good stops.
If you cannot live without your retail dose then drive off to Mahon Point that’s a little distance away from the city centre. This shopping mall has most brands right from Argos to Next besides a bevy of restaurants and a state of the art Omniplex cinema.
Getting to and around
Cork airport is on the fringes of Cork city, right on Kinsale road that’s just 20 minutes away from the city centre.
The airport enjoys connectivity to 40 different cities across the USA, UK and Europe and some places in Asia including Brussels, Geneva, Cardiff, London, Malaga, Barcelona, Edinburgh, Munich, linarite, Prague, Verona, Granada, Delhi, Chennai, Bristol, Jersey, Liverpool, Palma de Majorca, Manchester, Verona, Katowice etc.
You can also take a flight to Dublin and then a quick bus/ train ride to Cork. If you are flying from the United States then flying to Shannon airport and then travelling to Cork would be more convenient.
Take bus 226 from the airport to reach Parnell place bus station in 20 minutes.
The Cork Ferry port is in Ringaskiddy that’s just about 50 minutes of drive away from the Cork city centre. It’s possible to travel from Roscoff (France), Santander (Spain) to Ringaskiddy by ferry via Brittany ferries. In case you want to avoid travelling through the UK, these are good options. Service is only from April to October though.
There are plentiful taxis and car hire services available right outside the port besides regular bus service.
Kent railway station is just a few minutes away from Cork city centre on Lower Glanmire road. Connections to Dublin, Cobh, Tralee, Middleton and Mallow are frequent.
The main bus station of Cork is Parnell bus station right at the epicentre of the busy city. Every two hours there is a bus that leaves for/ comes in from Dublin. You will get direct buses to Killarney, Limerick, Galway, Waterford and Shannon Airport every hour.
Buses are a good option for getting around the city. While Saint Patrick’s street is the primary bus hub, there is easy availability of buses on Quay, South Mall and Grand Parade. There is the city bus tour too which is open-topped and has a hop on-hop off system.
If you are planning to use bus travel significantly then purchase the Leap Card; it’s an affordable way to use Bus Eireann services in a flexible manner. Buy it from a Payzone agent or install the Leap Top-up app and then top up the balance.
Download the Carma app on your smartphone and you can use the carpool network to get around the city. The connectivity of carpool is strong and it’s affordable and quick plus offering excellent interaction scope with the locals.
If you are hailing a taxi then look out for the TACSAI license plate and the green-blue stickers…these are meant for tourists and run on meters.
People visiting Cork find it convenient to walk around and there are a wide variety of walking tours. Bikes are also easily available and cheap.
Read: How to get around Cork city easily using public transport.
When to visit
Cork is blessed with a mild climate and though the main tourist season is from Easter till September, you can basically visit at any time. The winter months have low tourist traffic and some cafes might be closed but then there are virtually no queues to the main attractions. Walking and hiking and distillery and brewery tours are still lovely options in winter.
Go in summer for the music festivals and go in winter for the peace and quiet and the great discounts on hotels. June has the midsummer festival (opera, theatre, dance etc) and October has the international Jazz festival while January has the special burger festival. The year is dotted with mini beer, food and art events so you will hopefully catch one.
When in cork, uncorking a gallon of good times becomes a simple affair. No matter what you do it ends up being a great day!!
Read: Important weather conditions in Ireland and its major cities.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.