There is got to be something special about a city that has grabbed more than 12 “best city in the UK” awards in 8 years. The historical city of Edinburgh hosts one of the world’s best universities, has more than 100 parks and was the inspiration behind the Harry Potter fantasy world.
The entire city is a UNESCO world heritage site with more than 75% of the gorgeous buildings having been listed. Several movies have been filmed here including the Illusionist, Chariots of Fire, Da Vinci Code etc.
This is a city where visitors usually don’t face any language issues… English is spoken everywhere albeit with lyrical Scottish, Welsh and Irish lilts. The compact city is based on a smattering of low hills so walks are invigorating, full of blissful views and highly recommended.
Attractions and Activities
The Edinburgh Castle is probably Scotland’s most iconic attraction. There are several things to look out for here like the Half Moon Battery delivering the One O Clock Salute and the glittering crown jewels that are nestled in the Royal Palace and the historic stone of destiny. This is one of those places that always has a serpentine queue so consider buying a “skip the line” entrance ticket.
The Holyroodhouse Palace is the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh and it has seen many coronations and royal weddings. If you are lucky, the queen will be away and you can visit the Historic Apartments that was the erstwhile home of Mary Queen of Scots along with the State apartments that are full of exquisite furnishings and wall décor. The Great Gallery has portraits of Scottish kings and the Queen’s Gallery holds rotating exhibitions….keep an eye out for the 12th century Holyrood Abbey that’s nearby.
The Holyrood Park is 640 acres and has an 820 feet high construct called Arthur’s Seat… this is surrounded by a legion of tales. You can climb up via the Dunsapie Loch or the Salisbury Crags and explore the remnants of St Anthony’s Chapel. You get a stunning panoramic view of Edinburgh city from Arthur’s Seat. There are gigantic cultivation terraces in the park that represent medieval Scottish farming practices.
On Holyrood Park near Arthur’s seat, there is the Dynamic Earth science centre which takes people on 500 million years’ worth of journey of the history of the plane. The superior gadgetry and special effects have to be seen to be believed…there are amazing representations of glaciers, rainforests and volcanoes.
While in Edinburgh taking a walk on the Royal Mile is the norm…this refers to paths linking the above two attractions. Every step is filled with intricate architecture, wonderful churches, landmarks, restaurants, cafes and museums. The taller buildings are called lands and the slim roads are known as winds giving the whole place an exotic medieval aura.
You can easily spot the St John’s Highland Church, Outlook Tower, Camera Obscura, and Gladstone’s Land (a rich merchant’s house with paintings and period furniture). Look into the Writers Museum which has lots of rare memorabilia of the poets Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Louis Stevenson.
Another fantastic place to have a stroll is the rather busy mile-long Princes Street on the main thoroughfare of New Town. There are lovely gardens and a bevy of shops amongst which the tradition centric world’s oldest departmental store Jenners of Edinburgh is the most conspicuous. Also, look out for Princes Mall and the new Register House (ironically 13th century) that has all the Scottish national archives. The 200 feet tall Walter Scott monument and David Livingstone memorial are the stars of this street and somewhere near there is the refreshing Princes Street Garden with an ancient floral clock.
In High Street, you will find the ancient St Giles Cathedral that’s the biggest church of Edinburgh with a 161 feet central tower and 8 arched buttresses that form an imposing crown. The Thistle Chapel with its ancient emblems, oak etchings and gorgeous seals of “Knights of Thistles” is one of the best showcases of Gothic style. Also on high street is the Museum of Childhood which is a real treat for both kids and adults. Delve into it to discover dolls, miniature trains and games sourced from across the globe.
Another fantastic church lies in the magical looking Candlemakers row….Greyfriars Kirk that flanks an ancient graveyard. James Hutton, John Gray and his loyal Greyfairs Bobby and others lie here. This is a historic 17th-century church and has been recently restored. It has been so named because of a pre-reformation Franciscan friary that once stood here close by. In fact, this was the first church to have come up in Edinburg after the reformation.
Calton Hill has an amazing view of Edinburgh Castle, the quaint old town with Arthur’s seat inside it. On the eastern side, there is a splendid view of the Firth of Forth (estuary of several rivers including River Forth) and on the northern side, there is the Leith docks. Look down at the foot of the hill and you will find the solemn Royal High School that once had Walter Scott as a student and right opposite the hill is a memorial to Robert Burns. Look straight and there is the National Monument erected to honour the dead from the wars of Napoleon.
Incidentally, the memorial design was inspired by Athens’s Parthenon. You should also check out Nelson’s monument.
After the world’s first cloned sheep “Dolly” happened, there was a sudden increase in the footfall to the National Museum of Scotland. Archaeological collections, artefacts from the middle ages and displays on technology, history and science make this a fascinating place to visit. Amongst the many art heavy places in Edinburgh, a visit to the National Portrait Gallery, Scottish National Gallery and Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art are worthy pursuits and together represent one of the richest art collections of Europe.
Walk to the Edinburgh port and you can catch sight of the Royal Yacht Britannia that’s a relatively young attraction. Famous people from across the globe and celebrities have graced this fantastic vessel which served the royal family for more than 4 decades. Following its retirement, it’s the crown of the Visitor Centre of Britannia. Go on a tour of the 5 main decks of the ship and learn all about its historical journeys before stopping for dainty refreshments in the Royal Deck Tea Room.
The second oldest botanical garden in Britain i.e. the Royal Botanic Garden sprawls across 70 acres and has a super large palm house and herbarium. There are different sections like the house of tropics with orchids, sculpted and terraced moorland garden, alpine house, the garden of heather, aquatic garden with lovely Indian pink lilies and an arboretum with exclusive Himalayan, Chinese and North American trees. The woodland garden is a riot of colours with its rhododendrons, hydrangeas and camellias.
Don’t forget to wander about in Leith (this was the inspiration behind “Trainspotting” the famous novel). The rough and rowdy port zone now sports lots of cafes and bars along with pawn shops and polish supermarkets. This is where you can find people dancing in the bars while crowds cheer them on.
This area contains an impressive biking circuit all built on erstwhile railway lines…. The North Esk Cycle Loop that’s a 15-mile giant circle. You can explore the Rosslyn Chapel and its station and picnic spot as well as the scenic Bilston Glen viaduct among other places. The biking expeditions are done via a guide who will explain all nearby attractions to you and provide refreshments.
It is highly unlikely that you would wish to venture out of this fascinating city if you are here for a couple of days though there are some fantastic day trip options around. The fascinating countryside of Lothian’s with the quaint Portobello beach, the regional Hills Park Pentland and the sandy stretches of John Muir way are all on offer. If wildlife watching is what you love then Polkemmet Country Parkland is the place for you.
Food and Drinks
Incidentally, Edinburgh is one of the few cities in the world where coke is not the most popular drink…this position is taken by Irn Bru.
You will find eclectic restaurants in the old town like the Timberyard that serves incredibly delicious yet rustic Nordic cuisine…the mutton tartrate is highly recommended. Expect wood-burning stoves and rugs on the floors in the winters.
The dramatic Witches by the Castle looks like a Goth church and serves authentic Scottish specialities like roast loin of venison, witchery haggis etc. Ask for a table in the “secret garden section” if this is a romantic meal.
Number One at Balmoral is quiet, sophisticated and expensive with flawless service and exquisite gastronomy experiences like the Balvenie smoked salmon in a citrus sauce. Also in the Balmoral Hotel is The Palm Court with its exquisite crockery, chandelier and elegant service along with elegant English food.
For another fantastic afternoon tea experience go to the Colonnades in the Signet Library at Parliament Square. The best tea, best of food (smoked salmon éclair and pear and caramel frangipane tarts) and polished silver-cut glass is out there in this neoclassical book haven.
21212 on the Royal Terrace (Michelin starrer) is the creation of Paul Kitching who is playful with his food. Small dishes with clever mixes and lots of unusual combinations like the “amuse broche” are the headliners here.
On top of the Scotland National Museum is The Tower with its fantastic skyline view and a pure Scottish menu like Isle of Skye brown crab, Dingwall Haggis and steak Perthshire. If you are around the grass market area then pop inside Mary’s Milk bar…its pistachio vanilla décor is distinct. Try all things sweet right from hot chocolate to freshly flavoured sorbets to fizzy gelato floats.
Kim’s Mini meal on Buccleuch Street serves awesome Korean meals at affordable prices ….the Japchae, osam Bulgogi and ramen in Portmeirion bowl are house specialities. Ting Thai Caravan serves authentic Thai food in cardboard boxes…cheap and addictive the food is worth the discomfort of sitting at tall commune tables.
Soderberg near the Middle Meadows Walk serves lovely Swedish delicacies and has nice outdoor seating arrangements… crayfish sandwiches, cardamom buns and wood-fired sourdough pizzas are excellent here. In the heart of historic Edinburgh near George IV Bridge is the Elephant Room where JK Rowling wrote many of her Harry Potter ditties. Order the shepherd pie, salads and milkshakes and read the amazing graffiti inside.
The Gardener’s Cottage on the super busy London road has fresh country food like partridge pie, turnip gratin and sea buckthorn sorbet and gingerbread meringue. You need to sit on shared tables ….weekend brunch is fantastic.
Nightlife
There are many bars in Edinburgh which run on some kind of a theme and Frankenstein that’s hosted in a 19th-century church tops the list. There is a superb dance floor and dazzling trivia nights even on weekdays. A huge screen keeps on playing the original editions of the black and white Frankenstein movies on loop and a huge animated monster descends from the roof at intervals spewing smoke from its body.
Old Town’s heart has a street named Cow Gate that’s a hub for students, travellers and sports enthusiasts. You will find Three Sisters perched in the middle of it…it has an amazingly huge beer garden that’s a venue for food festivals, sporting events and comic shows. Also in Old Town is Hive that’s the dive bar and nightclub that’s hugely popular amongst students. This is a relatively affordable place that keeps playing chartbusters.
The Jazz Bar is a basement music venue that plays a delightful mix of music namely electric, blues, soul and roots. Bare stone and burnished wood create eclectic interiors and there are lots of free events happening here. The Bongo Club run by a locally owned art charity is also a great music venue with awesome light and sound systems. Affordable drinks and industrial décor schemes are the highlights.
Under the vaults of the North Bridge is the aptly noisy Cabaret Voltaire which believes in promoting new talent. Lots of live music, performances by international DJ’s and private club booths and gaming tables are on offer here. Try the Cowgate Stumbler….it’s a mix of 3 kinds of rum and apricot flavoured brandy. Another must-visit is Sandy Bells that’s a famous hub of Irish and Scottish music….people from many places come here to listen to “Edinburgh swing” that’s a kind of folk fusion music.
Ensign on the famous Royal Mile near Edinburgh castle has amazing musical performances every night….the place dates back to 1680. In new town, there is Beer and Skittle that’s a sports bar that boasts of excellent fruit-based cocktails and large pool tables, television sets and a dartboard. Try the house special Skittle Tipple….Vodka with real skittles floating in it.
The Jam House is perched behind the gorgeous portico of Old BBC Broadcasting house on Queen’s street. There’s the leather decked chapel bar and a lively dance venue downstairs which has seen music stars like Ben King, Vagabonds and Jimmy James. Also in the new town is the sophisticated and expensive Tiger Lily that has pricey drinks and a mature crowd. Standing Order that has been converted into a bar from a bank has high ceiling vaults, a library atmosphere with loads of books and a priceless selection of spirits.
For a different flavour of nightlife, you can visit the Edinburgh Festival Theatre that’s known for its concerts, musicals and house productions. The dazzling red and gold glamour and the stunning view of Arthur’s seat from the atrium plus the thrill of a resident ghost (yes, Edinburgh’s theatre has another worldly resident) is a good addition to the night.
Or you can catch a night comedy gig at the Stand Comedy Club that’s a mecca of Scottish comedians. In west end there is the Ushers Hall that was created by an Edwardian era Whiskey king Andrew Usher….everyone from local bands to Rolling Stones have played there. Catch a show there in the spectacularly high upper circle.
Then there is the Traverse Theatre nearby that keeps hosting new shows by playwrights and keeps the Shakespeare spirit alive. In Southside there is Summer Hall that has a mix of night entertainment….music, comic gigs and exhibitions. Every Tuesday late evening has a Ceilidh Club that has a live band performance and free dance lessons for anyone who walks in!!!
Shopping
Edinburgh’s main shopping hub is Prince’s Street and you will find all European high street brands here. Strolling down the lane is a delightful experience you can see the Edinburgh castle flanking it…one side of the street is left deliberately open for savouring the view. Zara, Debenhams, New Look, Jenners, Boots, Body Shop, Super Drug and a snazzy Apple Store are a few highlights.
The Princes Street Garden area has lots of seasonal markets like the Edinburgh farmers market (a mecca for organic food and fresh produce) that’s held every Saturday and the German Christmas market. Also, check out the nearby Waverley Mall.
Walk right over to George Street where there is a dedicated fashion arsenal for those who believe in haute couture. A bevy of stylish bars flank this area and the street has stunning Georgian architecture flanking it….assembly rooms, George Hotel and the Dome are a few names. Pop into AllSaints, Karen Millen, Anthropologie, LK Bennett, Kooples and Rox Jewellers for retail nirvana.
If splurge shopping is on your mind then Multrees Walk with its exclusive Louis Vuitton and Harvey Nichols and Balenciaga and Stella Mc Cartney is your perfect destination. Also find Michael Kors, Burberry, Mulberry and London Links amongst others.
William Street in West End and the Raeburn Palace area in Stockbridge are the best places to hunt for antique items and jewellery. West end has Just G, Frontiers, Lily Luna, Paper Tiger and many other eclectic stores. Stockbridge has loads of gourmet food stores like IJ Mellis and vintage garment stores like Common People Clothing and Those Were The Days. Sheila Fleet Gallery here sells jewellery inspired by the Scottish countryside while Voxbox sells rare vinyl records.
Visit the old town for loading up on some quality Scotch bottles. The Cadenhead Whiskey shop, Ragamuffin, Scotch whiskey experience and Cranachan and Crowdie are attractions in their own right. Also shop for fine cashmere, vintage bags and Scottish craft in this area.
You can explore the area around Royal Mile for picking up authentic Scottish giftables. This area also contains shops selling quality knitwear and organic food. Walk a little further and you will reach Cockburn street and Victoria street both of which have an array of niche shops selling unique gifts and a vast array of music CDs.
Vitoria street is thin and winding with tower high shops on either side….the best book shops and an antique joke shop named Aha ha ha are located here. This street inspired the creation of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. The nearby Grassmarket area is well known for its odd shopping options. There is a quirky hat store (Fabhatrix), decorative fossil store (Mr Wood’s Fossil) and vintage stores (Armstrong Walker).
Incidentally, Edinburgh has a strong literary culture…it prides itself on a record number of libraries and bookstores. A number of antique and second-hand bookstores are found around the Edinburgh university area. The Old Bookstore (yes that’s the name) on Victoria street, Elvis Shakespeare on Leith Walk, Analogue Books on Candlemaker Row and Armchair Books on West Port are an ode to the world’s first Literature heritage city….Edinburgh.
When To Visit
Edinburgh doesn’t experience much of the dreaded sudden rainfall which plagues other European cities. April to September sees mild weather and this is actually the best time to visit. In winters it is pretty cold and wet though from an affordability and room availability point of view these are the best months. August has the lion’s share (book festival, fringe festival, art festival etc.) of the 12 international festivals that define Edinburgh so that’s the busiest and priciest month.
Read: Important weather conditions in Edinburgh and Scotland
How to reach
Edinburgh Airport is Scotland’s reigning airport that’s about 6 miles from the city centre. Incidentally, the airport has awesome facilities including spas and champagne and seafood bars.
Once you land you can take the Airlink 100 express bus and ride to the city centre in half an hour. The Lothian 35 bus will take a winding route encompassing Gyle shopping centre and RBS Headquarters before dropping you off at the city centre….choose depending upon whether you want to sightsee right away. Alternatively, you can take a tram or a taxi from outside the airport.
There are three railway stations in the city; Waverley, Edinburgh Park and Haymarket. Download or get a copy of the rail timetable from the national rail/ Scottish rail website or office. All major cities in Europe are well connected to Edinburgh Waverley by train…frequent connections are available to London, Manchester, Glasgow, Birmingham and Plymouth.
Getting around
Lothian buses run all around the city and outskirts providing a great way to discover the city. Day tickets and weekly/ monthly passes are easily available. First Buses also cover Edinburgh nicely.
An easy way to see the city is to hop on a city bus tour…these start and end at Waverley bridge from where you will get tickets. These tours will have an audio commentary explaining the history and important facets of attractions that you pass by.
Don’t miss taking a scenic train journey while you are here. Take the new South Border line to see the Rosslyn Chapel (Da Vinci Code fame) and House of the Abbotsford or the far north line to see Dundee, Inverness, Aberdeen and the magnificent highlands. Or you could explore the Clyde coast, mountains and Glasgow via the western line.
One of the most bike-friendly cities in the world Edinburgh has lots of exclusive biking paths that bisect the city. However, the cyclists can easily share the bus lanes during high traffic times…the city is geared towards facilitating bikers and walkers.
Read: Local transports in Edinburgh and how to get around.
To Conclude…
Edinburgh is a heady cocktail of culture, history and good living. A Scottish person once remarked, “Edinburgh is what Paris ought to be”. Come for yourself and see if you agree!!
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.