One look at the statues standing on George Square and even the uninitiated will gain a full idea of the intellectual, scientific and poetic prowess that Glasgow has produced. The ornate City Chambers tells the story of economic wealth and robust trade activity and proficiency in the marine and engineering sciences that medieval Glasgow earned. The beautiful central city square of Glasgow was converted into a film set for numerous movie scenes including the science fiction hit Battle of the Z.
The illustrious Piping Live that’s organised by the National Piping Centre Glasgow is also organised in George Square. In Christmas, the entire area becomes a carnival site with a giant Ferris wheel, carousel and even an open-air market. The ceremony for the 2014 Commonwealth games was held here and over the years George Square has seen parades, rallies, protests and joyous parties. A visit to Glasgow can’t be complete without dipping into its heart… the historic and lively George Square.
History
In the Middle Ages, Glasgow had a lot of pasture land to the north and west of the city and there was an actual unpaved road called Cow Lone (cattle used it mainly) and an area called Cowcadden where cattle were milked. This land was bought by a city merchant and hospital owner George Hutcheson in 1609…some plots of the land were assigned to leading gardeners in the hope of creating landscaped gardens.
In 1772 the city magistrates acquired a few plots of land here. Come 1750, Glasgow merchant activity had flourished thanks to the wealth generated from sugar, tobacco and cotton. New streets were laid out near this area and these included Virginia Street and Miller Street. Cow Lone was renamed Queen Street and its ancillary lane Back Cow Lone was renamed Ingram street.
Named after the glories of King George III, George Square was established in 1781. The first few years of its existence were dismal… horses used to be slaughtered here and it was nothing but a muddy hollow. It took a few more years for houses and hotels to spring up alongside the square and by the year 1850 (the engineering and trade industries were thriving by this time) the square had become a magnet for all kinds of merchant activities.
A vast number of Georgian style terraces and building blocks were constructed in the perimeter around George Square. The Northside of the square especially had very elegant townhouses that had unrivalled architectural beauty in those times…these were the dwellings of Glasgow’s rich commercial community
To the east side of the square, there was the celebrated City Chambers (opened in 1888) that was designed by London based Scottish architect William Young. George Square which was once a private garden had become a full-fledged public space with statues of dignitaries like James Watt, Robert Burns and David Livingstone decking it up. Protests, rallies, parades and demonstrations began to be held regularly in George Square.
In the 19th century, the famous battle of George Square happened when the city’s engineers held up a rally and were subsequently baton-charged by the police. A crowd of around 20,000 people gathered and the rally and protests became rather violent and the police fearing a Bolshevik revolution. In February 2005 the George Square was closed to the public for two months… an unexpectedly long period and the statues of the square were cleaned while the concourse got a fresh cover of red asphalt.
As of now, George Square can be said to be the heart of Glasgow… it regularly sports political gatherings, light and sound shows, ceremonies and annual parades on Remembrance Day. The citizens of Glasgow are emotionally attached to Gorge Square and its iconography so much so that public outrage caused a recent redesign plan to be indefinitely shelved (in 2014 the city council had proposed to redecorate the square and shift the statues).
George Square has hosted student fairs, Olympic Torch relay Party, Glasgow loves Christmas event and whiskey festivals. The commonwealth games opening ceremony was held here in 2014.
What to See and Do
Glasgow is said to be an architect’s paradise and a walk around George Square will tell you why. There are many important and very old buildings here… each built by illustrious architects and designers of yesteryears and each with their unique stories. Savour your walk around the square and photograph these important buildings which have an important role to play in shaping the history of the city.
The eastern side of the square links North Frederick Street and South Frederick Street, and the beautiful Glasgow City Chambers (dated 1889) stands here. This is said to be one of the loveliest buildings in the UK and its ornate detailing narrates the prosperity of the merchant class of the city.
If you happen to be at George Square during the weekdays between 10.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m. then you can sign up for guided tours of City Chambers that are free and last for 45 minutes each. No prior booking is necessary. The marble staircase inside is said to be the biggest in western Europe and is made of pure Carrara marble. The gorgeous banquet hall has seen important events like Nelson Mandela receiving his Freedom City award in 1993.
There are 3 electric powered chandeliers in the banquet hall… back in 1885, this was an innovative and momentous thing. The Banquet halls are full of mahogany, alabaster fittings and ornate plasterwork and they contain a notable collection of the work of Glasgow Boys. It took an amazing lot of labour to build this place…more than 1.5 million tiles were hand laid into the vaulted domes and ceilings.
Incidentally, Queen Victoria had opened the City Chambers in 1888 and since then it has served as a seat of City Councils. Queen Victoria’s image is etched on the building front and her majesty has the apex statue of Truth above her… Glasgow locals call it their own Statue of Liberty.
The City Chambers creates a four-storeyed square construct that has a domed turret at each side of the western façade. There is a huge tower that rises up to 230 feet in height…this was apparently inspired by St. Vincent Street Church. The architect William Young was influenced by the architectural styles of Rome and Florence and hence this building looks like an Italian Renaissance construct.
The far right-hand side of the City Chambers entrance has a very intriguing display. There are 3 sets of Measuring Standards that ensure fair trade by merchants, architects, shop keepers and builders. These standards have been publicly displayed since the 19th century and demonstrate Glasgow’s love for fair practices. You will find an inch, foot, 2 foot and 3 foot mounted on the chamber walls.
The second set of measurements i.e. an accurate 100-foot measure is in a different location… the grassed area at the western side of the North Lawn. The 3rd measuring standard is in the grassy area on the eastern side of the North lawn. There is an accurate standard chain measure embedded in the ground and flanked by a plaque from the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors.
The Cenotaph is found right near the 3rd set of measurements and it dates back to 1921. This big and impressive monument was built to pay tribute to Glasgow’s citizens who were killed in the 1914 Great War. Sculptor Ernest Gillick and architect JJ Burnet collaborated on the project. There is a carved stone remembrance here which is almost always covered with memorial wreaths and blooms. Incidentally, soldiers were recruited at this very spot by lieutenants so the setting couldn’t have been better.
On the southern side of the square, there is the general Post office building (dated 1878) that links Cochrane Street and St. Vincent Place. This Grade ‘A’ building got a massive makeover two decades back and has now been converted into multi-storied extremely elegant office spaces. The external roof terraces lead to lovely views of the city centre and the glass and metal roof relives Victorian railway architecture…this is easily one of the most stunning modern buildings in Glasgow.
On the northern side of the square, there is George Street that leads to another illustrious Scottish University… the University of Strathclyde. The Queen Street station entrance (this was built on the demolished grounds of the Glasgow House) is found here and as you go forward you will notice the lovely townhouse style Millennium Hotel. This is actually a composite structure of 3 townhouses with ornate terraces (dated between 1807 to 1818).
The western side of the square has Queens Street and the most notable building here is the Merchant’s House that was created in 1603 to protect the duties, rights and privileges granted to the technicians, craftspeople and merchants of Glasgow. Notice the dome with its interesting emblem of a ship on a globe…it’s a reference to Glasgow’s deep commercial ties with sea trading.
The Merchant’s House dates back to 1874 and was designed by John Burnet but it was his son JJ Burnett who designed the iconic ship on the globe, dome and tower in 1907. The frontage of Merchant’s House is Italian Renaissance style and has a beautiful sculpture with reclining graceful female figures supporting the windows.
The whole area surrounding the Merchant’s House and stretching eastwards is a part of Glasgow’s famous Merchant City… the playground of Glasgow’s original businessmen who made their money trading in tobacco grown at the other end of the globe. Look out for Hutcheson’s Hall with its steeple and clock on Hutcheson Street and the Trade House on Garth Street.
An ancient fruit market has been rechristened as Merchant Square …it’s a big hall filled with restaurants. There is St Andrews …an ‘A’ listed church considered to be one of the best in Britain. Now the entire Merchant city is a medley of shops, restaurants and glamorous boutique filled streets. Wandering around the streets here is a peek into the economic strength of the city and an architecture lesson too.
The Queens Street Station (earlier called the North British Railway Station) stands here between High street, Charing Cross and Queen Street and this was built in 1842…making it the oldest underground railway station here.
The Bank of Scotland’s Italian style building also stands here…this dates back to 1867. You can now actually go inside the old bank for a meal and drink…this has been converted into a restaurant named The Counting House. There is a wide selection of menus inside right from vegan to vegetarian to gluten-free to dairy-free etc. The chicken avocado wrap and British beef lasagne are great and so are the range of steaks, burgers, pie and haggis.
Incidentally Wetherspoons (a multi-chain brand) manages the pub here and it has got a nifty app… free to install and you can book your table in advance. There is a good selection of whiskies, craft beers, strong ales and wines besides malts. Now, regular music performances happen here including jazz recitals. The Glasgow Chamber of Commerce is also housed inside.
The Glasgow Visitor Information Centre is the biggest tourist enabler in Glasgow and one of its branches is in George Square. You will get lots of free information and help here right from booking a trip to selecting a hotel to plan your holiday or renting a vehicle. You can call them for queries too (Phone: +44 (0)141 2044400).
Shopping opportunities abound around Glasgow’s George square and one of the best places to fill up your bags is Buchanan Street. There are great shoe stores here like Bromley & Russell, Office and Dune. The beautiful House of Fraser store is also present here…you will find everything from beauty accessories to luxury brands like Gucci, Prada Hermes etc. here. There is a sewerage floor devoted to men’s wear and accessories too. The House of Fraser store is decked up fantastically at Christmas with an iconic cascade of lights.
Buchanan Street has lots of high street fashion brands too and therefore shopping here need not make you break the bank. There is urban outfitters, All Saints, Jack Wills, Diesel, Zara, Nike and New Look besides a bunch of sports stores.
One of the most remarkable features of George Square is the array of 12 statues that have the City Chambers to their right. You will find that the statue of Walter Scott (highest and the biggest) is right at the centre and is mounted on a massive 80 feet column. There is Thomas Graham (of Graham’s Law fame) the discoverer of the Dialysis principles. Then there is Thomas Campbell Scottish poet and playwright.
Then there is Field Marshal Lord Clyde and William Gladstone (served as Prime Minister 4 times). The statue of Robert Burns in a Scottish frock coat and knee-breeches with a flower in his hand is very striking. Then there is the statue of James Watt…the sculptor Chantrey who created this statue was a close friend of Watt and his creation bore a remarkable semblance to the scientist.
The Statue of Prince Albert is one of those rare statues of non-Glasgow residents who are represented here. The statue of Queen Victoria with the royal sceptre in hand and seated side-saddle on a steed is a very striking one…it is said that the Queen had a great love for Scotland and she continued visiting the Balmoral Castle each year till her death. There is the statue of Robert Peel (Home Secretary and Prime Minister in the 19th century).
The statue of Sir Walter Scott is the first public monument anywhere in the globe that pays tribute to the novelist. Sadly, most of the statues (all of them are ‘B’ listed monuments) are covered in bird muck now….and the number of pigeons on George Square will surprise you!!
Even considering the fact that most big squares in leading cities are always full of pigeons but the birds here are fed constantly and have skyrocketed in population. There are lots of benches around to sit but being exposed to bird droppings is a major disadvantage. Don’t miss out on photographing the intriguing Poverty Stone Plaque here… a testament to the fact that ‘Poverty is neither inevitable nor acceptable’. You will find this plaque between the monuments of John Moore and Field Marshal Lord Clyde… the plaque was brought in from Paris. On 17th October each year, Glasgow locals congregate here for music, dance and cultural festivals…symbolic of people existing in poverty engaged in improving their conditions.
The square gets converted into a huge open party place as the locals sing and dance and make merry on important occasions like St Andrews Day and Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve). Bagpipers play live music and local bands host free performances. A good place to check for upcoming events on George Square is the Glasgow City Council Website.
Such is the importance of George Square that the Glasgow City Council airs live webcam footage from the square (updates every 20 seconds) so that citizens and tourists can have a fair idea of what’s happening at the focal point of the city.
Christmas in Glasgow is always special and one of the best ways to experience it is to soak in the festivities at George Square. A traditional Christmas market is organised here with brightly lit stalls selling everything from furry coats to home décor pieces to boots. There are stalls selling pastries, chocolates (the hot chocolate stalls are legendary) and snacks. Scores of Santas roam around the square doling out candies to kids and keeping them entertained.
Every year, a big Ferris wheel and a carousel are arranged here and they become the epicentre of winter festivities. Christmas oriented activities are usually organised at George Square from the end of November to the end of December.
Tours
You can find several nice tours of George Square (including combination tours) and book online from this Viator site.
Location
The George Square is usually the first stop for the Glasgow Hop on Hop off bus City Tour. The Bus lines 1, 1 A, 500, 6, 906, X19 and X4 stop near George Square. There are plenty of bus stations nearby like St Vincent Place, George Square, Martha Street and Garth Street. Glasgow Queen Street Station is serviced by both Caledonian rail and ScotRail. George Square is roughly 8.6 miles away from Glasgow airport and you can easily take a taxi or bus to reach here. There are many fine hotels around George Square so basing your Glasgow Holiday here might not be a bad idea if you don’t have an issue with the noise.
There are lots of restaurants, pubs and brassieres on George Street and you will be spoilt for choice. There is Ella Greek Restaurant, Jamie’s Italian and the Scottish Brassiere on the Square itself. Then there is St. Vincent Place with Atlantic Brasserie, Café Andaluz, Paesano (Naples style Pizza), Anchor Line and the Citizen Bar and Dining Rooms. Miller Street with Piece, SoHo Glasgow and The Spanish Butcher etc. is also a good option.
Once you are done exploring George Square you can walk to some major attractions nearby like the Gallery of Modern Art and the Lighthouse. You can also go into West George Street and the nearby St. David’s Church burial ground that holds the graves of many glorious city merchants who created the prosperous version of Glasgow that the world knows today. Of course, shopping in the Merchant City and walking around admiring the historical buildings can be an engaging activity.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.