The German-speaking section of Switzerland boasts of a lovely city that has medieval arches. The ancient Benedictine monastery of St Leodegar of the 8th century was also called Luciria and this was the inspiration behind the city’s name. In fact, Lucerne was originally a fishing village that swelled into a city when servers of the monastery began building homes and roads there.
Lucerne slowly accumulated land and power and this combined with its religious clout made it into a catholic canton leader. The political landscape has changed but its enchanting almost fairy-tale-like beauty still exists. The Reuss River cuts it into two parts but 7 bridges within the town sew them together.
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Attractions and Activities
Gaze at the 56 17th-century paintings on Spreuer Bridge (the oldest bridge across Reuss) and you can recognise some that symbolise the Dance of Death. The right bank of the river is an architects’ and historians’ paradise… the four-wheeler free old town with its intact 14th-century town walls and famous Weinmarkt Square stands here.
9 watchtowers, small alleys and squares that are dominated by medieval, baroque and renaissance houses mark out the Old Town of Lucerne. Look out for the old Town Hall building at Kornmarkt in Old Town that hosts the historical museum, Chapel of St Peter, Am Rhyn House, Mariahilf Church and the 8th-century church of Hofkirche Saint Leodegar. This Town Hall or the City Hall was built in 1602-1604.
Then there is the Lion of Lucerne monument (1819) depicting a majestic dying lion that was created by Bertel Thorvaldsen…this is a tribute to the valiant Swiss guards who lost their lives in Paris defending the Tuileries.
Right beside it is the unique Glacier Garden (dated 1872) that’s a testament to the Ice age. There are glacial potholes, an ancient marine beach and the Schweizerhaus housing historical exhibits. Also, check out the Alhambra mirror maze and the 18th-century terrain model of Switzerland.
You can spend some time in the Swiss Transport Museum that’s in Lidostrasse….find more than 3,000 exhibits, multimedia displays and simulators inside; there is the Filmtheater/ Imax, a live interactive map of Switzerland, an adventure-themed games room with chocolate and a planetarium.
It’s interesting to take kids along to check out the development of conveyance systems in air, road and water and space. In sheer contrast the Rosengart collection is for mature audiences who know how to appreciate classical modernism and its masters Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee….also find Monet, Matisse, Miro, and Chagall here.
Go to the left bank and you will see another slew of attractions. There is the cantonal government mansion Ritterscher Palast, the Jesuit College, the State archives with a distinct Rococo influence and the huge Central Library that holds the comprehensive Helvetica, numismatic and natural history collections. Then there is the Jesuit Church that’s the first sacral baroque-style building in the country.
While you are strolling by the banks of Lake Lucerne on this side notice the strikingly different and modern Culture and Convention Centre that was created by Jean Nouvel… this is a festival and cultural event hub. Inside the convention centre, you will find the Museum of Art…Switzerland’s finest visual art space.
The residence of Richard Wagner (now a museum) will be of interest to music lovers. Inside there are personal memorabilia, paintings, pictures and a nice collection of original music scores. The highlight, of course, is the Erard Grand Piano used by Wagner himself…frequent exhibitions are held here. There are other museums of repute here like the Lucerne Nature Museum, Hans Erni Museum, Museum of History etc.
Get hold of a Swiss museum passport if you love museums…you will get free entry and fast access to principal exhibits subject to conditions.
A short 15-minute walk from the Lucerne railway station will take you to one end of Bourbaki Panorama…one of Lucerne’s highlights. This is a giant circular painting created by Edouard Castres who immortalised a historical event i.e. the vanquished French army fleeing to Switzerland and finding refuge in 1871. A glance is enough to tell you that the Swiss pride themselves on their solidarity.
Other architectural landmarks around the left bank are the 14th-century Goth church with Rococo highlights, the New Town Hall and the Richard Wagner Museum and the Congress Hall.
Another amazing aspect of Lucerne is its fountains… some 225 of them dot the city and its suburbs and supply fresh drinking water to all who pass by. In terms of visual beauty the Wagenbauch fountain (front of KKL Luzern), Barfusser Fountain (Franziskanerplatz) and Fritschi fountain (Kapellplatz) are exceptional. The Weinmarkt fountain supposedly existed when Lucerne joined the Swiss confederation. This city has always used its fountains as social hubs and a citizen facility rather than a mere decorative facility.
Lake Lucerne dominates the city and it’s the 4th largest Swiss lake also referred to as the “lake of four forested settlements”. The lake actually starts from Reuss Valley and then continues from Fluelen to Brunnen to the Gersauer Becken where it’s at its deepest…..the total area is 114 km sq. Most great hotels, resorts and restaurants are perched on the lakeside and you can use the train, steamer, motorway (A2 motorway passing through Seelisberg tunnel) to explore lake Lucerne from many angles.
Lucerne is directly connected by mountain rail to Engelberg that’s a winter sports hub with casinos, sailing and rowing facilities and a flair for horse racing. There is steamer service in Lake Lucerne that links with cableways and rail lines and a cruise in the lake till Weggis/ Vitznau and then a train till the Rigi (called the queen of mountains)… splendid options!
Alternatively, you can cruise along to Alpnachstad and then take a cable car to Pilatus Mountain. If a short round trip is all you have time for then go to Meggen from Lucerne and come back… an hour-long plan.
Food and Drinks
Due to its position in the Germany-influenced area of Switzerland, its food is also endowed with a German touch. Try the pear bread and alpine macaroni here apart from going on a cheese overload.
One of the best places for breakfast in Lucerne is right beside the Reuss river…Mill’Feuille serves breakfast till 6 p.m. Sample the goji berry compote, muesli, homemade hazelnut jam, and baked eggs and you will crave more. Steak tartare is a house speciality that’s best gorged down on the terrace with the view as a bonus.
Hearty German food can be found at Wirtshaus Galliker in Scutzenstrasse and this is traditionally run by the Galliker family for over a century now. It’s cosy and happy inside and you can enjoy a hearty Luzerner Chugelipastete (pastry of mushroom and veal a speciality of Lucerne) …this is a pet-friendly place.
If you cannot live without pizza then Lucerne old town has Valentin which serves excellent seafood risotto and authentic pizzas. You will find the 16th-century baker’s guild converted Zunfthausrestaurant Pfistern here. There’s a lovely fresco on the façade and a view of the Kapellebrucke from inside…food is typical delicious Swiss.
Almost everything in Lucerne (and in Switzerland) is expensive so La Cucina (part of Astoria group) on Pilatusstrasse is a welcome break. Affordable and quality Italian food and lovely ambience along with a set menu that changes every week (ricotta gnocchi, pizza prosciutto, carpaccio seafood are frequent) make this a winner. Gartenhaus 1313 in Lindenstrasse offers a similar experience with a 5-course meal served for a fixed price. Service is excellent and usually, the meat calf dish is superlative too.
If it’s French food that you crave then Brassiere Bodu on Konmarkt has a bistro vibe and French favourites like bouillabaisse, entrecote and ratatouille …food is predictable and very tasty. Burgerstube in Bahnhofstrasse has regional food like veal and rosti, crab with saffron mayo dressing etc. The crème brullee with berries and apricot terrine are standouts. For tapas and excellent fajitas and quesadillas head off to Bolero (part of Cascada hotel) that’s just 10 minutes away from the railway station.
For light contemporary and healthful Swiss cuisine try Restaurant Stern (at Burgerstrasse)… offers fantastic views of the Franciscan church from the terrace. The building has splendid architecture that’s about 700-year old and contrasts with the decidedly modern seasonal menu. In summers you can have the fennel, orange, gazpacho salad and cucumber soaked in gin and vegan tagliatelle with strawberries and rocket lettuce.
If you want to enjoy a lazy weekend lunch away from the city then Rosslistube on Lucerne outskirts (part of the family in Landgasthoff Rossli) has the perfect setting. Wood-panelled dining room, bright green fireplace and an unusual menu…. think coffee marinated salmon and perch with lime sauce.
Read: Great restaurants in Lucerne for vegetarians and vegans
Read: Top Indian Restaurants in Lucerne serving North and South Indian cuisine
Nightlife
Spend the evening chilling at Rathaus Brauerei …the town halls partner. There are great strains of in-house beer here; Rathaus Bock and Rathaus Naturtrub that go well with apple sauce sprinkled macaroni pasta that they serve.
For chic night entertainment go to the Louis Bar in Hotel Montana that goes all the royal way with gleaming chandeliers, ceilings done up with stucco, ornate wood panels, huge piano and a spread of 130 whiskeys. Live music and Thursday jam sessions are awesome.
Also, check out the adjacent Hemingway Lounge which has more than 60 types of rum and a good selection of cigars. Nachbar in Moosegg is casual and sophisticated and serves excellent Eichhof beer from taps besides a decent wine list. Weekends see DJ performances though this is better meant for soaking up the ambience than serious music.
Blue Bar and Smokers Lounge has an amazing ambience and lovely baroque décor with glass architecture. Check out the chandeliers standing over Sake barrels and listen to bewitching Asian music
In Morgartenstrasse there is the black and white themed bar that promises to make those who drop in Fat and Happy….food and alcohol quality are both good. If you happen to stroll around the lion monument in the evening then do check out the Alpenieum Kaffeehaus Bar which has a hipster vibe and eclectic stone wall décor. This serves everything from breakfast to late-night cocktails.
If you are craving a sports lounge in Lucerne then Anfield Pub near Schwaneplatz is the place to go. There are 21 flat-screen televisions and 2 huge projectors and a staggering range of beers. Watch football, ice hockey, cricket, and tennis and check out the great crowd. Bruch Brothers in Baselstrasse is more vintage looking and streams champion’s league, Spanish league and English premier league.
If you want to spend your evenings outside the busy hub of Lucerne then the Barrock in Kriens (just a 5-minute drive away) is a nice option. Enjoy the single malts and the rums but don’t ignore the Grappa sourced from the iconic Italian distillery ‘Berta’. The service is prompt and the owners are friendly and good at making tourists feel welcome.
Penthouse Roof Top Bar in Pilatusstrasse offers a dazzling view of Lucerne city and the mountains. There is a great drinks menu too and sugar-free red bull for health addicts…be prepared for a big bill though. If a busy and popular club experience is what you seek then Das Schwarze Schaf in Frankenstrasse is your answer. Upstairs is the cocktail bar ‘Das Weisse Schaf’ and the club which perpetually forces everyone to dance all night is downstairs.
If you are in town between April to October check out the Stadkeller (in old town) that hosts a fantastic dinner and cultural show every night from 8 p.m. Rock shows and music events happen here in winter.
The Grand Casino in Haldensteig offers 250 slot machines with huge jackpots and a slew of table games. There’s a restaurant, multiple bars and a great crowd inside.
Dinner cruises/ sunset cruises on Lake Lucerne while watching the palaces and the fascinating mountainous backdrop glide by is another way to spend the evening. There are many cuisine options but the catered 4-course Indian dinner meal by Kanchi is very popular.
Shopping
Lucerne can beat both Geneva and Zurich in terms of shopping if you like unique stuff as you will find many independent boutiques and standalone stores here. Check out Fizzen at Löwengraben (bus stop Schwanenplatz) which does young and distinctive fashion well. It stores backpacks, 50’s style flowery dresses, nightclub wear and wonderful accessories apart from vintage stuff.
Marc O Polo in Bahnhof sells trousers, blouses, jackets, and coats that are incredibly stylish. Boutique Mai in Waldstatterstrasse sells local and international designer wear including the iconic Freitbag collection. Comme Ca in Schweizerhofquai and Company’s in Reusssteg are other boutiques offering top fashion spreads.
Specifically for Swiss chocolates, you should visit Bachmann in Schwanenplatz which sells delectable cakes, chocolates and special gingerbread. The café Chocolate World with its flowing chocolate wall and 50 types of pralines is a must-visit. You will find Max chocolatier nearby that makes mini cakes and handcrafted chocolate. Buy bars of Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds and fresh basil ice cream.
And if you want to shop for souvenirs then the Schweizer Heimatwek store sells very nice fashion accessories, fondue sets, toy books, red and white-coloured artefacts and Swiss cow miniatures.
For Swiss watches (designer stuff) go to Bucherer in Schwanenplatz….they stock IWC, Rolex, Longines, Rado and the likes. Christ watches and Jewellery in Kramgasse stocks Rado, and Tissot apart from Swiss favourites like Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix. Partime in Grendel stocks awesome watches that show the time as well as the percentage of the day spent, while Rent a Box in Kornmarkt sells pre-owned watches that are truly unique.
If you prefer visiting department stores then Manor and Globus are both good and conveniently placed near the railway station. For a supermarket experience, go to Migros and Deindeal. Shopping centres like Landerpar (Stans) and Pilatusmarkt (Kriens) offer everything from shoes to electronic items.
Try visiting a Farmers Market in Lucerne…the incredible aroma of fresh produce, cheese, pasta, wine and flowers will bewitch you. Every Tuesday and Saturday there are markets around Unter der Egg, Rathausquai, Bahnhofstrasse and Helvetiaplatz. Summer and fall also see handicrafts markets and flea markets where you can do some budget shopping.
How to Reach
Travelling to Lucerne is a sightseeing activity in itself. The city is beautifully set against the Alps and lets you enjoy excellent views via all conveyance mediums.
The nearest airport to Lucerne is the Zurich airport that’s 52 km away while the Basel Mulhouse Airport is 104.2 km away. Zurich is well connected via flights to all Major European and non-European countries.
Lucerne is reachable by train from Interlaken, Milano, Geneva, Zurich, Basel, Koeln etc. the main train station is inside the town beside the lake and is a major Swiss transport hub. Both high-speed and regional trains operate to and from this station. Lucerne is connected with major European cities via Eurostar which connects via Geneva / Zurich.
International bus connections are available to Swiss cities like Basel, Zurich, Bern and Croatian cities like Zagreb, Rijeka, Split etc. Bosnia and Herzegovina are also well connected by bus. European cities like Milan, Lugano, Munich, Brussels, and Strasbourg are well connected to Lucerne too.
Getting around
You can take a 40-minute tourist-oriented city train trip on a special train that takes you around the city with an audio guide that explains attractions.
In Switzerland travel is about the journey and not the destination so take the Gotthard Panorama Express for a stunningly pretty 5-hour boat and train journey that exposes you to both snow-capped mountains and luscious palms.
The complicated track with loops, tunnels and bridges will take you from Lucerne/ Zurich to Ticino (Italy) via the base of the Gothard pass… this was previously known as Wilhelm Tell Express. Keep an eye out for the profusion of cherry trees en route. The Jungfraujoch Top of Europe trip (9.5 hours), as well as Mount Pilatus and Mount Titlis trips (boat, train and cable car), are popular travel routes from here.
Within the city, bus networks are extensive and the timetable, stops and route data are all clearly indicated. You just need to follow the information shown on the screens to know everything about bus routes. Bus line 24 operates from outside the railway station and takes you to the city centre…frequency is every 15 minutes.
The main boat dock is near the Lucerne railway station. Boats run frequently to nearby Swiss towns like Vitznau, Fluelen, Weggis, Brunnen etc. Scenic travel on lake Lucerne is highly recommended…take longer trips and soak in the alps. Boats usually have a restaurant and onboard bistro and there is first/ second class demarcation.
Whether a one-day travel pass or a multiple journey ticket or a group ticket is your requirement; simply buy a suitable composite travel ticket for Zone 10 from Passepartout. 11 transport companies operating in Lucerne, Nidwalden and Obwalden work together in the Passepartout fare networks. Use the train, bus, and ship free within the travel card validity period.
Download the SBB app and check out routes and buy tickets or visit the SBB ticket shop and buy tickets. You can also get the Tell Pass Specifically for unlimited rail travel across the Lake Lucerne area ….valid only from April to October. Most hotels will give you a Visitor Card when you check in with them…this allows free usage of buses and trains.
More than 500 taxis operate around Lucerne and the city has a fixed minimum fee. Renting a bicycle to get around Lucerne is also a nice option …you will burn away those extra calories you are sure to intake here.
Read: How to easily get to and around Lucerne using public transport
When to Go
It’s easy to time your visit with the Lucerne festival…. all editions of international quality concerts are held all through the year for example in summer, around Easter, in November etc. If you arrive around February then you can catch the Luzerner Fasnacht that’s a colourful carnival of national repute.
In April there is the international comic festival and a range of gigs and comic shows are performed. In July there is Blue Balls …another celebrity-studded musical event. August has a spectacular night festival when splendid fireworks are lit on the banks of the lake and there are loads of stands around. November sees music and culture lovers flocking to the Grand Casino Lucerne for the Blues festival.
June to September is peak season…the city’s easy distance to the Alps means that it’s pretty cool in the summers. October and May are good if you want to reduce travel expenses and still avoid extreme cold.
Read: Important weather conditions in Switzerland
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.