A critical port and the capital of the Bouches du Rhone area and the Alpes Cote d’ Azur area, Marseilles is on the southern coast of France. Area wise, it’s the third-largest city in France and is also the oldest dating back to 2600 years.
The area is flanked in the eastern direction by Calanques coastal area and the Sainte Baume Mountain rising above a clamp of deciduous forests and the French Riviera. The northern direction also has mountains i.e. the toile and the Garaban mountain ranges while to the west is the historic artist colony l’Estaque and the Cote Bleue and the Lion Gulf.
The city of Marseilles has the Canebiere boulevard as its primary thoroughfare… this extends from the Old Port to the quarter of Reforms. The entrance to the Port is flanked by two historic forts of great tourist value… Saint Nicolas on the south and Saint-Jean (built in 1660) on the north. Marseilles bay has the Frioul archipelago that has 4 islands and these have been immortalised in the famous book “The Count of Monte Cristo”.
The city is distinguished by its large communities of immigrants; Jews and Muslims …the Armenians, Comorans, Senegalese all have their own neighbourhoods there making the place a dream destination for history, sociology, anthropology and culture lovers.
In the relatively ethnically conservative France; Marseilles is liberated and sets great standards of tolerance… its large population of peaceful mosques, synagogues and churches co-existing with each other is just an indicator of what makes the city special.
The city has been built as a twin model with 13 other international cities out of which Copenhagen, Antwerp and Glasgow are conspicuous names… the attempts of the government to glamorise and mainstream the city are rather obvious.
Attractions and Activities
Marseille is a beautiful place but its historical value is far more important. This is a city that came back to life after almost total annihilation during the 1720 Marseille Great Plague. Almost 70 years later the eventful French revolution centred on here and it was here that the national anthem of France “La Marseillaise” was penned.
The city saw many changes through the industrial revolution, the French empire establishment and then the German invasion and the Second World War during which it was again almost destroyed. Right now Marseille is a throbbing bustling commercial city and port with a large chunk of immigrant communities. In 2013 it was voted as the European capital of culture. The French government invested heavily in building museums, cultural hotspots and galleries in Marseilles and its waterfront was admirably restructured.
When you go to Marseille ….you should begin exploring around the Old Port (i.e. Vieux Port) which is the cultural heart of the city. Incidentally, this is where the popular movie “Love Actually” and “Her majesty’s Secret service” were filmed. This area has a history of nearly 3 millenniums and commercial ships have been anchoring here for ages… however, these have now migrated to the Joliette area in 1840. All you will see on the old Port are glamorous and not so glamorous cruise ships along with lots of fishing boats… this is an awesome place to get fresh catch at dirt cheap prices.
To the southern side of the port, you will find the Saint Victors Abbey that’s remarkable for being one of the oldest places of Christian worship in France (this dates back to 415 AD). You will also find the Canebiere that’s at the furthest end of the Old Port. The Phare de Saint Marie lighthouse is a major attraction and so is the ancient Hotel de Villie that’s the city Town Hall. This place is famous for its incredibly old buildings like the Hotel de Cabre (1535) and the Hotel Dieu (1593) and the Museum d’ historie naturelle de Marseille (1819).
The Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde stands on Marseille’s highest point i.e. La Garde… its 33 feet Virgin and the child statue covered in dazzling gold leaf is visible from any part of the city… This is a ravishingly beautiful opulent structure that has Romano Byzantine style construct… this is easily one of France’s most iconic landmarks.
Stand for a moment on the hilltop and savour the 360-degree panoramic view of the sea of terracotta roofs that mark the city… this is a closely packed intense place. The north façade of Notre Dame has sharp marks of bullet and shrapnel scars that are an ode to the violent battle of Liberation (1944).
The biggest European suburban park is in Marseilles, the Calanques National Park. Boating through the azure waters and exploring the 20 km exotic stretch of rocky promontories is easily one of the best things to do here. Sunbathing, hiking and watching the 900 species of flora and fauna (Europe’s largest lizard and longest snakes are found here) in the inland i.e. Massif des Calanques are definitely recommended though preferably with the help of a guide.
You will find structured trips and professional guides at Marseille’s tourist office. The park can be explored in a day trip… its stunning limestone cliffs stretch out till 20 miles from the southern tip of the city. Travellers say that the limestone cliffs are the most startling bit of the French Mediterranean coast… so keep your camera handy.
A great experience can be had a Chateau d’If if French intrigues and sensationalism are to your taste… this is the French version of Alcatraz. A rather startling aspect is the differentiation of the cells… the poor were kept in windowless dungeons while the rich could pay for private prison quarters. The Monte Cristo count was fictionally imprisoned here and most locals believe that it was a real event.
There are two other visit-worthy islands i.e. Ratonneau and Pomegues that are jointly called Frioul… they are joined together by a dyke. Lovely walking paths along rather fierce-looking limestone cliffs and pretty bathing areas near creeks make this a rather different experience in the densely populated region of Marseilles. Look out for the interesting 19th century Caroline Hospital that played an important quarantine role… it kept Marseille safe from yellow fever.
The journey to If and Frioul islands from Port Vieux via local ferry is a charming one and both trips can be done under half an hour worth of travel time each making them interesting day trips
Exploring the Aix en Provence area will appeal to you if you have an intellectual bent. This is often referred to as Marseille’s intelligent little brother…many generations of academicians, high profile judges and noblemen have hailed from here. Explore the graceful thoroughfare here… it’s called Cours Mirabeau. The town teems with small markets, culture and a distinctly Mediterranean way of life.
La Canebiere is Marseille’s proudest avenue that highlights the riches and glamour of its colonial trading heydays. It’s nearly a mile long and extends from the Vieux port… keep an eye out for the grand Haussmannian townhouses lining this avenue… they were obviously built to flaunt the wealth of their owners.
Incidentally, this area mostly has modest boutiques, budget shops and numerous kebab stalls. This is a local hotspot… almost everybody living in the city visits this area so there are excellent people-watching opportunities. Nearby is the souk area of Capucin that’s an open front emporium that sells spices, North African handicrafts and local produce.
If you go up the hill that’s to the north of Vieux port then you will reach the Le Panier… this is the most atmospheric place in the city and the best place for photography and cultural observation. Incidentally, this was a hoodlum headquarter and an immigrant hotspot… wander in a group and keep your pockets safe.
While ambling through this area you will reach La Vielle Charite that’s a stunning 17th-century building that has arcades on 3 levels… it’s hard to believe that this was once a poorhouse!!! Inside, there are two lovely museums… the museum of Mediterranean archaeology and the Museum of Afro Armenian arts. The biggest collection of treasures of ancient Egypt after the Louvre are housed in the archeo museum and the building’s courtyard has an exquisite Pierre Puget’s chapel.
Marseille is not well known for its beaches though there are some beach spots like Plage Des Catalans (near Old Port) and Plage Du Prophete ….in between these two beaches, you will find the Vallions that are a row of picturesque creeks.
The coastal 64-acre parc Balneaire Du Prado with its gigantic Michelangelo statue also has falls in the same line… this has multiple beaches. The park has sailing, canoeing, sports facilities and a solarium… come September and a vast number of colourful kites flood the skies above; this signals the Fete du Vent. This period sees more than 100,000 kite flyers from all over the globe… it’s a celebration of the power of wind, so wind sports, wind-based instruments and kite workshops are held all over.
The Prado Beaches are near another nice park….Parc Borely that’s a leafy serene enclave containing the lovely 18th-century Chateau Borely. This has the Museum of Fashion, Earthenware and Decoratifs in it and the exhibits are as beautiful as the structure which has some marvellous Frescoes.
This place has a French garden, English garden, Japanese garden along with cycling paths, walking tracks, picnic area, kid’s playground, waterfall, tea pavilion, bird and fauna displays and multiple seating areas where you can admire nature. No wonder that this zone makes for a lovely day out especially if you are on holiday with family.
Marseille is not as green as other French cities and this Parc along with the Palais Longchamp and Campagne Pastre are its lungs. If you wish to migrate to other more restful areas from this bustling city then the vineyard filled Provence and the eclectic Cote d Azur belt offers many options.
Food and where to Eat
La Caravelle in the old Port area is a distinct place with a very nice terrace area and sumptuous zinc bar… look out for the antique murals and the wood and leather accents. Another great place to lunch neat the port is La Passarelle at rue de Plan Fourmiguier that’s remarkable for conjuring dishes out of produce that’s grown in their garden.
The Le Panier area is also home to excellent restaurants…. near Place de Lenche you will find the Le Café des Epices that’s known for its squid spaghetti and succulent scallops. If you love organic/ vegan fare then the Café Borely (inside Park Borely) has lovely menu options… you can even order food from here and have it in the terrace or garden.
For more expensive and elaborate meals the Restaurant Rowing Club near the MuCEM museum and the Le Ventre de l’ Architect in La Cite Radieuse (UNESCO Heritage site)….are perfect.
Whichever restaurant you choose… do decide to eat Marseille’s prime gourmet attraction i.e. the Bouillabaisse on your trip. The fishermen use their catch to concoct this signature dish and it has a minimum of 4 different kinds of fish plus shellfish. An authentic Bouillabaisse will not cost less than 55 Euros and will require advance intimation… it takes a long time to be prepared but the results are worth it!!
Have it in style in two courses… the Soupe de Poisson and the deboned fish platter along with crunchy croutons and garlic pepper mayo rouille… all heaped with loads of cheese.
Nightlife
There are lots of bars, clubs and discs in Marseille and the atmosphere is usually raucous due to the cultural mix of people staying here. Le Bar de la Marine at the port side has a 1930’s look while Bar des 13 coins has been the filming spot of many movies… try the full salad meals here. La Caravelle in Belle Vue hotel plays real good jazz while Bar Mama SShelter in Plaine plays rock n roll and hip hop.
La Dame Noir VII plays gorgeous electro-techno. Rap music is played everywhere and people consume copious quantities of alcohol. Sip on Aperitifs and watch the sunset at the expensive and gorgeous R2 Rooftop on top of shopping hub mecca Les Terrasses du Port and 2000Lieues in Les Goudes.
Shopping
The Old Port area is best for souvenir shopping and picking up packs of Savon de Marseilles in several scents and flavours (the best place to buy is La Grande Savonnerie at MuSaMa). You will see numerous stalls selling conservative santons or Christmas crib figures here.
The backstreets of the Le Panier area sells petanque sets (the best place to buy is La Boule Bleue). The opposite side of the old Port has a road strip between Bar de la Marine and Theatre Criee which is best known for its sailing sweaters, model ships and fishing boats besides posters and printed t-shirts.
If you want to shop for memorabilia then locate any O.M (Olympique de Marseille) outlet… the Velodrome stadium has a gigantic one. The Noailles market edge on rue de Rome has some shops that sell indiennes… the indigenous extra colourful fabric of Marseille.
If you want to shop for haute couture then it isn’t the best city… however high street fashion is doable. Behind the Opera de Marseille, theirs is a rectangle of streets that have Louis Vuitton, Chopard, Hermes, Montblanc etc. and in the rue Sainte and rue Davao area, there are small scale boutiques and high street stores.
How to Reach
Marseille Provence Airport is moderately connected to major UK cities… there are flights from Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, Edinburgh and Manchester. Good connections are available from Germany, Spain, Italy and Belgium. If you are flying from anywhere else your flight will mostly connect via Paris. Incidentally, the airport is 20 miles away from the city and you need to take an airport shuttle bus.
You can take trains to Marseille from Aix en Provence, Cassis, Nice and Barcelonette. Eurostar runs trains from London and TGV trains run from Gare ST Charles, Nice and Avignon in France to Marseille.
The Gare Maritime de la Major has regular passenger ferry connections to and from Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica and Tunisia. Marseille is a major port for many Mediterranean cruises and passengers are seen alighting at Marseille Provence cruise centre.
Local Transport & Getting Around
Getting the Marseille City Pass (comes in 24/48/72 hours) is a good investment if you are going to use the public transport system extensively. Metro, tram, bus, the famous boat shuttle going to the prison island of Chateau d’ If and the petit train going to Notre Dame de La Garde are all included in the city pass besides discounted entry fees to museums and slashed prices on a hop on hop off bus. Then there is the ZOU! Pass which is expensive but will get you 75% discount on buses and regional trains.
The RTM or Marseille Transport Authority has a confusing range of ticket prices and ticket clusters and it’s possible to gain a better understanding of it from the official website. A general rule is to buy tickets beforehand… they are cheaper. The Carte 10 Voyages ticket cluster is meant for multiple people doing many different journeys… they all can use the same card. Pass XL is good if you want to do a lot of travelling within city areas.
There are two metro lines here; M1 (east to west) and M2 (north to south) and Marseille Saint Charles and Castellane are metro junctions. There are 50 bus routes and 3 tram lines that cross Marseille… tickets are overall affordable and the service is punctual.
A great way to explore Marseille thoroughly and not work hard at it is to take an open-top tour bus… this was earlier called Hop On Hop Off bus and is now rebranded as Colorbus. Many of these leave from the Vieux port and they will play a decent English commentary (7 other languages are available) while taking you around the sights.
The Colorbus will take you around the Corniche to the beaches fringing the southern side and up the steep climb to Notre Dame de la Garde… there are 14 stops usually and you can get off or on at will.
The Marseille city tour bus is another option and its route is more extensive though there are very few provisions of getting off and on at will. Another interesting tourist diversion is the Petit train… a cute blue and white-coloured train that leaves from the Old Port and goes up to the Notre Dame and alternatively to the Le Panier.
Walking is undoubtedly the best way to soak in this atmospheric city but the next best option is going around in a bicycle. There are more than 1000 rent-a-bike providers and more than 120 bike racks… first half an hour on the bike is free. Asian style electric bicycle taxi or Tuk Tuk runs in the city, old town and its suburbs and you can try travelling in it for a novel experience.
Driving around the city is achievable though parking fees are highest amongst all French cities. There are many car parks but the traffic is rowdy.
Read: How to get around Marseille using local transports
Climate
Marseille is known as the sunniest place in France and it generally has a dry hot summer and cool humid winters. The climate is hot and Mediterranean.
Read: Important weather information for Marseille and other major cities of France
To conclude…
In so many senses Marseille is the antithesis of Paris… its potpourri of immigrant culture and rowdy spirit has only been thinly masked with oodles of money and glamour that has glitzed up its fancy buildings and boulevards. This is precisely why this port town is so fascinating… you cannot help being drawn to its rather raw appeal.
Like its Bouillabaisse that gets its flavour from so many different fish, the local culture is a priceless mix of so many ethnicities and identities that don’t just dwell here… they think of Marseilles as “home”.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.