The Palatine is the most iconic of Rome’s hills though it often gets dwarfed by the mighty Colosseum that stands right beside it. Once upon a time kings and emperors competed with each other to stay on the Palatine and that’s why it’s now home to the most magnificent archaeological sites that you will have ever seen. With mythical sites like the hut of Romulus and the ruins of grand palaces like the Flavian palace; the Palatine has attracted historians, archaeologists, tourists and seekers since ages.
Right now a visit to the Palatine hills comes included with the newly launched S.U.P.E.R ticket as well as the basic Colosseum ticket and Roman Forum Ticket so it makes perfect sense to combine a visit to all 3 Roman marvels in a single day.
History
An Iron-age dated hut on the south western corner of the Palatine Hill has been identified by archaeologists as the hut of Romulus (Rome’s mythical founder). Romulus and Remus lived here as the stories go…on the Palatine hill cave till a giant she-wolf discovered them and then raised the twins. The mythical Lupercal cave still has active archaeological work going on around it and it’s a good spot to see from a distance and wonder about the settlements that dwelt around here in the 10th century…long back before Rome was even founded.
Human settlements were founded on the hill as early as 10th BC and the very first editions of the ‘Romans’ dwelt on this hill. There are stories linking Palatine Hill to the great warrior Hercules who vanquished a multi headed monster Cacus who lived on this very site. If you look at Palatine hill today it’s easy to understand its age old popularity; the location is central, the views fantastic and it’s some degrees cooler here than in most of Rome.
In the ages of the Republicans, elite Romans resided here and later the major kings of Rome chose this hill as their residence. King Augustus, Tiberius and Domitian all had their palaces here and left behind grand ruins like the Domitian stadium, Flavian palace and House of Augustus. There are also records of beautiful mysterious constructions on the Palatine hill like the Apollo Temple and the Septizodium and these have left little traces fuelling the interest of archaeologists who are working hard to unearth their remains.
During the renaissance era the Farnese family used the Palatine hills for their botanical gardens (the first private botanical garden) and in the middle ages multiple convents and churches were built here. Such is the importance of the Palatine that the words palace, palazzo and palais (English, Italian and French words respectively) all originated from it.
History says that Caligula was also slaughtered on the Palatine hill….inside a tunnel (cryptoporticus) that stands under the ruins of the palaces. Incidentally stories of Caligula’s (also known as the Mad king) are one of the most interesting things the guide will tell you about. Supposedly he decapitated several statues of Gods and inserted statues resembling his own bust on the headless statues. He also took to sitting within the twin God statues and having the common folk worships him. The romans bore these atrocities for a long time before he was stabbed 30 times by a dagger inside the tunnels of the palace.
The thing about Palatine Hill is that each generation had its own agenda and built a fresh series of palaces and buildings over the remnants of vanquished ones. It became tough for even trained archaeologists to classify what belonged to which era. So while viewing the ruins of the Palatine bring along a healthy dose of imagination and good history knowledge.
What To See & Do
The Palatine Hill plateau is roughly 1740 meters in circumference and 51 meters above sea level. It’s full of archaeological sites right from prehistoric remains to scattered constructs of imperial castles. There are three major entry gates; gate south of arch of Constantine (gate with the shortest lines), gate near arch of Titus and gate near Via Fori Imperiali. It’s a steep flight of stairs from the Roman Forum to reach the Palatine hill but once you are up there the views are amazing. …choose your way up (there is a route through the Farnese gardens and another one through the arch of Titus).
The exit points are different from the entry points. You can leave the Palatine hills from multiple exit points…there are about 10 of them scattered throughout the site
Historically the Palatine Hill could only be accessed by the Scala Caci (inspired from the monster Cacus who resided here) that stands in the south west corner of the hill. If you are taking a guided tour ask your guide to point out this access area…it’s near Valabro; the old trading quarter of Rome. It’s near this spot that 3 Stone Age hut vestiges have been discovered; these are supposedly the Bronze Age settlements of Rome.
The Palatine hill is one site that can confuse the general tourist unaccompanied by a guide. There are plenty of sights here; some well preserved and some just a pile of bricks. The major sights are described below
The Domus Augustana or the Flavian Palace is one of the best monuments on the hill. This was constructed during the reign of king Domitian in 92 AD and then was expanded by his successor Septimius Severus. When you look up from the base of the Palatine hill you can get a better approximation of the sheer size of the castle. Emperor Augustus’s private palace had two floors that branched off into porticoes courtyards. In the year 2007 a large mosaic laden vault was discovered 15 meter below the Domus…historians say that this is the Lupercale (site where Lupus wolf nursed Romulus and Remus).
There is the Aula Isiaca (a gorgeous frescoed room from the republican era) and the Loggia Mattei (a loggia dating back to the Renaissance times and created by Peruzzi Baldassarre). Both of these are part of the S.U.P.E.R site and you have to pay extra to see them if you just have the ordinary ticket. Incidentally Aula Isiaca is also called ‘Room of Isis’ and contains various paintings related to the Goddess Isis. The Mattei Loggia refers to the roofed area attached to a villa or house; it’s named in reference to other Renaissance families that built houses on the Palatine hill.
All throughout the royal residence you will find ruins of columns and halls flanking a fountain dotted garden. The royal romans didn’t believe in living rooms; they walked back and forth with their courtiers while discussing important issues. The fountain at the centre of the garden is specially noted for its Cretan design. An expert guide will be able to point out the vestiges of the dining room, throne room, shrine and 300 meter hall.
Domus Tiberiana or the royal palace of Tiberius had colossal walls and a large series of terraces. Many important kings including the infamous Nero had created their own pieces of this palace complex. The emperor Caligula linked this palace to the Pollux temple and Castor temple (these are on the Capitoline hills) via bridges (these were tore down later). The emperor used to appear and receive divine honors here under the Dioscuri cult. The remnants of the colourful marble floors of the palaces (especially in the banquet hall) are still noteworthy. If you have a good imagination or a good guide then it’s easy to imagine the megalomaniac attempts of Nero and Caligula who created a structure of these proportions.
Look out for Domus Severiana; an expansion of the palace that was undertaken by Septimius Severus. There is a series of imposing baths here with super thick walls. A central heating system used to exist here too and there is a magnificent view from the nearby terraces.
Then there are the ruins of Domus Flavia’s (Domus Augustana) tiny stadium/ race course…kings used to watch private races here. You will find a series of lovely ruined fountains here with designs of Amazon warrior princesses.
There is the Septizodium …a big monumental fountain at the base of the south east corner of the Palatine Hill. The best Italian marble was used to build this ornate fountain which was an ode to all the 7 gods. A part of it remains was pulled down by Pope Sixtus V to use all its marble for the Saint Maria Maggiore Sistine Chapel.
Domitian stadium looks like a hippodrome but might have been the king’s private garden too. It has a running track that’s 160 meters long and 47 meters wide. Historians say that St Sebastian was murdered here on the orders of King Diocletian.
The House of Augustus and his wife Livia are twin constructs with beautifully preserved frescoes (rich colour and vivid detailing). They are recently excavated and opened to the public around 2018. These… casa Augustus and casa Livia are beautifully maintained (though they date back to more than 2000 years) and you can even enter Emperor Augustus’s private study and that in itself is an amazing feeling. Incidentally both houses once had central heating (a marvel in those times) and the rooms had elaborate Pompeian style paintings (now moved to National Museum of Rome).
Just north to the House of Livia are the ruins of Cryptoporticus…the site where the mad king Caligula was murdered. This is an interesting underground barrel vaulted corridor measuring about 130 meters in length that joined many palaces of Livia, Tiberius and Flavians together.
You need to pay extra for accessing this site even if you have the S.U.P.E.R ticket. There is a good audio visual commentary available for this section that will tell you all about the layout of different rooms and the gorgeous frescoes and murals. You can also take a guided group tour…better reach the Palatine hills site early and check for the tour timings. There is also a night light show available sometimes (check the Official Ticket Website) and that’s pretty impressive.
The Palatine Museum is smallish in size but houses an impressive collection of Roman statues excavated from the palatine hill. Some of the exhibits here are as old as the origins of the romans. The frescoes of the Hall of Isis, artefacts from Iron Age tombs and décor from the imperial buildings are exhibited here. Look out for the famous anti-Christian graffito featuring a crucifix with a donkey’s head.
Read the description boards and the notations carefully and you will learn a lot about Rome’s history. The museum is air conditioned and has a few vending machines (only place on Palatine hill to have these facilities).
There are ruins of the Farnese family garden with its pseudo roman constructs and bird houses and geometrically designed hedges. A 16th century cardinal built the gardens and the profusion of trees he planted strikes a nice contrast with the ruins around.
While visiting the Palatine don’t forget that it offers the best views of Rome. It’s the only place in central Rome that lets you see the circus Maximus (from one side), roman forum, Capitoline hill and Colosseum (from the other side) in all their glorious beauty. When you view the forum and the Colosseum from the hill terrace and feel the breeze in your hair then you can actually get an understanding of the prime real estate area that this hill once was.
If you are on the Palatine hill around mid-day then stand facing the Gianicolo Hill at exactly 12 p.m. and you can hear the sound of loud cannon shot. This is an 1870 dated tradition originating from the time when Italian soldiers blasted the rocky walls of Porta Pia and entered Rome. Since then (with some interruptions due to political events) the cannon is shot every day and that’s followed by the sound of all church bells ringing in Rome.
While visiting the Palatine remember that Rome is hot and there is plenty of shade amongst the trees and ruins of this hill. There are plenty of fountains here and it’s easy to bring water bottles along to fill them at will. There are toilets near the entrances but very few inside. You will find them to the left of the main entrances and next to the Palatine museum and Farnese raised garden.
If you are going with kids keep tabs on them at all times…the ruins are confusing and they could get lost. Also there are support staff inside but they speak very little English.
If you are visiting the Forum, Palatine Hill and Colosseum in one day then the Palatine hill should be visited at the hottest part of the day. Taking along a guide is very important as otherwise many of the ruins make no sense unless you have incisive knowledge about Roman history. An animated retelling of the history of the hill and the numerous myths surrounding it will add lots of value to your excursion to Rome’s oldest hill. If you are not taking a guide then read this article thoroughly and take a printout of the map of the Hills before you go otherwise you are sure to get confused. And if photography is your passion then visit the site around 4 p.m. or later…the setting sun gives the place mystical colours and an ethereal beauty.
Wearing a good pair of walking shoes and comfortable clothes is super important when you are visiting the Palatine hill sites….there is a lot of walking and climbing involved. The Palatine hills are a great picnic spot…bring along a hamper and watch the wildflowers amongst the ruins as well as rabbits scuttle around.
Tours & Tickets
The tickets for the Palatine hill (basic version) cost around 12 euros and include admission to the Roman Forum and Colosseum. If you want to avoid the long lines at the physical booking counter then book your tickets online….there is an added 2 euro fee for this.
All tickets to the Palatine Hill now have timed entry i.e. you will be given a specific time slot. There will be a lot of fine print so make sure that you go through it carefully.
The Colosseum ticket office has a lot of queues so it’s the least recommended for ticketing. The best place to book tickets is the Palatine ticket office on Via di san Gregorio or the Roman Forum ticket office on Largo Salaria Vecchia (lines are quicker here).
You can find various options for entry and tours of Palatine Hills (including combination tours with other attractions) and book online from this Viator site.
If you have the Roma Pass then remember that the Colosseum, Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill all qualify as one site. So you can visit the Palatine hill on the same day or on the next/ previous consecutive day as the Colosseum and Roman forum if you hold the Roma pass. The ticket also includes transportation for the days of your site visit.
The Rome City Pass and the Best of Rome All Access Pass also offers skip the line entry to the Palatine Hill (plus Colosseum and Forum). If you take a guided tour then check for what sites are included in the tour. You can always stay behind after the tour is done and then pay the extra amount to visit restricted sites. The audio tour is cheap and informative and comes on a smart tablet with audio visual aids.
The S.U.P.E.R ticket includes access to 7 important sites like Criptoportico Neroniano, Museo Palatino, Aula Isiaca-Loggia Mattei, Casa di Augusto, Casa di Livia, Tempio di Romolo and Santa Maria Antiqua. To know more about the SUPER ticket, read the Ticketing section under Colosseum.
Every first Sunday of each month has free entry to many monuments including the Palatine Hills…of course you can expect humongous crowds on these days.
Entry Timings
The opening hours for the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill are subject to change almost every month and you need to check the official website for the exact timings. The indicative timings are as follows.
From Jan 2 to Feb 15, the Palatine Hill is open from 8:30am to 4:30pm.
From Feb 16 to March 15 the Palatine Hill is open from 8:30am to 5pm.
From March 16 to the last Saturday of March, it’s open from 8:30am to 5:30pm.
From the last Sunday of March to Aug 31, it’s open from 8:30am to 7:15pm.
From Sept 1 to Sept 30, the Palatine Hill is open from 8:30am – 7pm.
From Oct 1 to last Saturday of Oct, it’s open from 8:30am to 6:30pm
from last Sunday of Oct to Dec 31; it’s open from 8:30am to 4:30pm.
The guards keep telling everyone to leave from half an hour before the designated closing time. The Palatine Hill is open every day apart from Christmas and New Year.
How to Reach
The Palatine is in the famous historic centre of Rome and is within walking distance from the Circus Maximus and the Piazza Venezia. The Palatine hill has good public transport networks and it’s a short distance away from the Colosseo metro station. Bus networks around are pretty strong and the bus numbers 87 and 75 service the Piazza Venezia area.
If you are an avid walker then visiting the Palatine by foot via the Via dei Fori Imperiali is a nice option…it’s highly recommended that you do this on the weekends when traffic along this route is restricted. All hop on hop off buses stop at the Colosseum and the point where they stop is the base of the Palatine hill.
There aren’t any restaurants inside but there are a couple of nice ones around like the La Prezzemolina and La Nuova Piazzetta. For delish gelatos you can visit the Gelateria La Dolce Vita and Flor Gelato Italiano (both gelato places).
Piazza Santa Maria Nova. Official Ticketing Website
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.