Undoubtedly one of Rome’s most visited monuments the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the holiest Christian sites of the world. Many call it the Basilica Liberian in honour of Pope Liberius… its intensely gorgeous décor and beautiful location (perched on the Esquiline hill) have earned it many fans.
Incidentally the Santa Maria maggiore is one of the 4 patriarchal basilicas in Rome as well as the largest basilica dedicated to mother Mary. It’s also the only church to retain a large portion of its ancient Christian architecture.
History
Like many other Christian monuments in Rome the Santa Maria Maggiore temple was built on the site of a famous temple dedicated to the Pagan Goddess . The first version of the temple was built in the 4th century under the orders of Pope Liberius though historians say that the actual basilica was built around the year 431 after the Efeso council under Sisto III. History also says that the Santa Maria cathedral construction was another of the several instances in which ancient Pagan temples were destroyed and Christian monuments erected in their place. There was a small temple at this very site …dedicated to birth protectors Giunone Lucina.
A rich Roman named Giovanni had a dream in his slumber and he saw the Virgin Mary who asked him to build her a Basilica at the spot where he would find snow the following day. Giovanni went to Pope Liberius the next day.
Supposedly the Pope too had this vivid dream in which the Virgin appeared before him with instructions for reconstructing the Church. The patch of snow as described by Mother Mary was however found the next day and the unique floor shape and colour of the basilica was designed on the inspiration from a miraculous snowfall. During the course of many years the Basilica commanded many names including Saint Mary of the Snow (snow actually inspired parts of the church) and St Mary of Nativity (it received a sacred relic of nativity). It was also known as Santa Maria Liberiana (for Pope Liberius) but finally the name Santa Maria Maggiore stuck as it’s the biggest of 26 churches dedicated to Virgin Mary.
If you have seen the famous 16th century painting ‘Miracle of the snow’ created by Jacopo zucchi you can see the pope outlining the perimeter of the church on that fateful snow covered August patch. If you haven’t seen the painting Google it to get a better understanding of the event. Incidentally the snow patch was found on Esquiline hill and the original basilica built here was Santa Maria della Neve. While going through the structural details of the Basilica note that several sections were added at different points of time…Students and lovers of architecture should be able to identify the confluence of several architectural styles in the Basilica.
Structure
The Basilica has undergone multiple renovations since the last few centuries but its basic structure and constructional parity has been maintained unlike many other Roman buildings which have completely changed face under time.
Exteriors
The Basilica is flanked by two palazzos; the building has 2 galleries and a gorgeous 18th century façade that’s decorated by Ionic and Corinthian columns. Expect to find a profusion of statues of saints, religious iconography laden reliefs and group sculptures and a fantastic 14th century bell tower. On the right side of the main structure there is a beautiful building that opens onto Piazza saint Mary major (commissioned under Clement X) and on the left there is another building with a Ferdinando Fuga façade that was commissioned by Clement XI.
The Central Door has beautiful inlay work by the famous 20th century sculptor Lodovico Pogliaghi (created in 1949)…it’s a work of pure bronze. Scenes from the Bible and the life of Mary are represented here. To the left of the central door is the newer Holy Door that had been blessed by Pope John Paul II on 8th December 2001…this was completed by Luigi Mattei and was actually a donation to this basilica from the Order of the Knights of sacred Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
The right panel of the Holy door has the image of Christ’s resurrection as shown in shroud of Turin. In the left corner there is the representation of Annunciation at the well and the right corner there is the image of the Pentecost. There is other religious iconography here apart from the papal coat of arms signage (John Paul II) along with his motto totus.
The northwest façade is the most ornate of all and it has twin domes and the external wall of the apse. Stone plaques, decorative balustrades and angels and saint sculptures dominate the whole space. The back of the basilica has the apsidal area that was created in 1600 by architect Carlo rainaldi. And at the centre of the Esquiline square there is a big obelisk that dates back from 1587 when it was sourced from the Augustus mausoleum.
Interiors
The interior of the Santa Maggiore Basilica are stunning and it will take your eyes some time to adjust to the profusion of grandeur around. The structure of the basilica is very harmonious and is created in accordance with the Vitruvius canon of rhythmic elegance that hinges around perfect symmetry amongst principal architectural elements.
Many interventions happened in the Basilica over the centuries but the basic 3 aisle structure and the presence of 40 marble and granite columns separating the aisles has been kept faithful. The entablature that’s interrupted at the transept by grand arches runs around the columns. Almost every inch of the basilica is covered in works of religious art.
Look out for the following aspects inside….
As you enter the portico there is a large statue of King Philip IV; one of the principal benefactors of the basilica. This statue was created by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the 17th century. Look down towards the stunning floor….its paved in opus sectile mosaic that features the Borghese arms of a dragon and an eagle.
Right above the entrance is a beautiful colourful glass window called the Rose Window. This is a 20th century work of art created by Hungarian born Italian artist Janos Hajnal. The window is a re-statement of the belief of the Vatican council that Mary links the Christian church to the Old Testament. Hajnal uses elements of the old testament (10 commandments) and elements of the New Testament (cross and chalice) to create this beautiful piece.
The Central Nave or the longish Aisle is flanked by Large Athenian marble columns that support the nave….these are probably from the first Basilica or an antiquity building. The shafts, bases and the capitals were however replaced during a restoration process in the 18th century.
Look beneath the Ionic columns and you will see an extremely attractive geometric patterned 13th century Cosmatesque floor. The wall mosaics on the adjacent wall date back to the 5th century and they show stories of the Old Testament. There is a 15th century coffered ceiling that’s gilded with pure Spanish Gold. Historians say that this gold was looted from the new world. Another view says that Ferdinand and Isabella gifted this massive amount of Gold to Borgia Pope Alexander VI (he was of Spanish origin). The latter theory is now established as a signage of his coat of arms has been found engraved on the ceiling panels.
The Ciborium is the most gorgeous part of the Basilica and its 18th century canopy is called Ferdinando Fuga’s finest work (incidentally he designed the exterior façade of the Basilica too). There are 4 repurposed porphyry made stone columns and these are topped by a compact coffered dome.
Triumphal Arch
This is a beautiful 5th century arch that crowns the altar. Richly saturated colours and jewelled tones fill up the basilica. Numerous mosaics that show many scenes from the Bible are mounted around the Triumphal arch. The theme here is the annunciation with various phases of the Virgin’s life shown in vivid detail.
Apse Mosaic
The Apse Mosaic is located right behind the Triumphal arch…the mosaics are incredibly preserved though they date back to the 13th century. These were created by artist and Franciscan friar Jacopo Torriti. Images and scenes from the life of Mother Mary are again the inspiration behind the detailed mosaics. Of particular interest are the scenes showing Mary dressed as a Byzantine queen and Christ crowning her as the queen of heaven…an unusual way of describing the death of Mary. The apse décor also has two beautiful acanthus trees placed at the two sides of the mosaic….their branches curl and blossom against the gold background.
High Altar
The high altar at this basilica is a papal altar that is it’s used by the Pope himself or a designated high priest. There is a porphyry urn on the altar that contains the remnants of St Matthew and other martyrs. Every August 15th the Pope leads a mass here on the event of Feast of Assumption of Mary. Notice the Baldachin (dates back to 18th century) above the altar…it’s laden with gilt cherubs while the nave floor beneath has beautiful 12th century Cosmati pavings.
Bell Tower
The antique bell tower here is the tallest in Rome….it measures about 75 m. The tower has a 12th century Romanesque style with square base, brick composition and both before and triforce windows. The exterior of the tower has ceramic bowl décor that’s a Middle Eastern style while the lowest before level has Gothic arches. Much of the tower was completed in the 14th century and the spire was added in the 15th century by Cardinal Guillaume. The belfry has 5 bells out of which the La Sperduta or ‘the lost one’ rings at 9 p.m. everyday summoning all to prayer.
Confessio
The Confessio or the reliquary crypt is perched in front of the major altar house. This is a 19th century construct that flaunts a Pope Pius IX statue who is kneeling in deep concentration in front of a lovely crystal reliquary with silver trimmings.
Cappella Sistina
The Cappella Sistina/ Sistine Chapel designed by Domenico Fontana is in the right transept of the Basilica. One of the major features of the chapel is the ornate tomb of Pope Sixtus V (1521 -90) and if you look closely you will be able to see reliefs and frescoes showing events from his reign. The chapel has a reliquary which is no less than a work of art created by Giuseppe Valadier is claimed to have ensconced remnants of the wooden relics of the Holy crib ….the original home of Jesus. History says that this holy crib was carried to Rome by Christian refugees after Muslims took over the Holy land. Notice the tombs of Gian Lorenzo Bernini and his family right outside the chapel.
Then there is the Bethlehem Crypt built as a replica of the Nativity crypt in Bethlehem….it contains the remains of St Jerome (author of Latin translation of Bible).
Cappella Paolina
The Pauline Chapel with its rich décor and precious tombs of Pope John Paul V and his predecessor Clement VII is another noteworthy part of the chapel. This one has Greek influences and was designed in 1611 by Flaminio Ponzio ….there is a 9th century Madonna icon on its altar. The famous icon of Virgin Mary called Salus Populi Romani or the ‘Health of Roman People’ is housed here since antiquity times. The name draws its reference from a miracle in which the icon helped deviate the plague from the city. Some historians say that St Luke the Evangelist himself painted it.
The church claims to hold remnants of the True Cross as they are housed in a 14th century cross shaped reliquary. Te Mirabilia Urbis Romae (sacred Roman text) says that even holier relics like blessed virgin’s milk and the Lord’s blood trapped in a crystal were held by the church but they are now lost to time.
Side Naves & Transept
There are thin high barrel vaulted side aisles inside the Basilica that lead into many small altars, side chapels and lovely monuments….all of which are worth exploring. Exquisitely crafted religious iconography dot these areas; all created by leading artists of medieval times.
Borghese Chapel
The Borghese chapel holds Pope Paul V Borghese as its benefactor. Observe the 17th century side chapel that’s richly inlaid with intensely colored marble and intensely decorative frescoes and a gorgeous dome. Multiple statues made of stucco, stone and bronze are scattered all around and some of them are made by Pietro (father of Bernini).
The chapel also houses a Prussian blue stone altar that bears the signage/ coat of arms of Princess Agnese Colonna Borghese, also, don’t miss the Byzantine icon of the Madonna Salus Populi Romani ….this was said to be painted by Saint Luke the Evangelist. There are other works of art here including monuments dedicated to Pope Clement VIII and Paul V.
Loggia delle Benedizioni
The Loggia delle Benedizioni / upper Hall of the Popes is a restricted section only explorable via a 30 minute guided tour. The ceiling is unpainted and coffered and has decorative reliefs that show the coat of arms of Pope Paul V. there is a Baroque fireplace with an engraving stating its year of inception ‘1605’. There are also a range of religious paintings here and some portraits…the star amongst them is the ‘The procession of Saint Charles Borromeo’ made by Domenico Muraton. History lovers and scholars will like the collection of liturgical vestments, musical scores and old sacred texts that include the letters of Saint Peter. The 13th century mosaics crafted on the façade were made by Filippo Rusuti…these were present in the original basilica. Some of these creations shows the virgin with the popes and Giovanni and are definitely worth a close look.
Museum
The museum was inaugurated in 2001 after John Paul II blessed it…the most important objects of the basilica were placed in this 8 room museum. The rooms correspond to the following themes; basilica history; nativity mystery and passion, salus populi Romani, saints connected to basilica and their personal items and remnants, religious iconography and art.
Even For a person not too interested in theology glancing at the work of the masters like Antonio Bazzi’s ascent on the Calvary and Dominico Jacopo’s Madonna with the child, St Catherine of Siena etc. could be rewarding. Tourists interested in music may like to see the intriguing ancient scores from the music chapel like the manuscript of the mass La Stella by Domenico Scarlatti.
The museum is open from 9.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. on weekdays…you just need to pay the 3 euro visiting fee.
Phone: 06-69886802; Email: [email protected]
Tours & Tickets
Entry to the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore is free but if you want to visit certain sections like Loggia delle Benedizioni, Scala Del Bernini and Sala dei Papi then you need to pay a fee of 5 euros. For touring Museo del Tesoro della Basilica Liberiana you need to pay a 3 euro fee. Lines usually move smoothly through the Basilica though you need to undergo a security check through a metal detector. Do be dressed respectfully for your visit.
If you are especially interested in catholic iconography and the history of the Basilica then you may want to take a guided tour of the upper Loggia and the Hall of Popes. Only guided tours (there is a 5 euro visiting fee) allow a close intimate look at the marvellous vaulted galleries along the sides of the Loggia. The exquisitely detailed gallery of the loggia and its beautiful mosaics along with startlingly life like angel statues are all a treat for the eyes.
The unique advantage of taking this tour is that visitors will be able to view the 17th century helical staircase created by Bernini….this is the first spiral staircase in the world that doesn’t have a central pole. This is an exceptionally beautiful staircase that’s also known as Scala di Bernini.
You can find various options for entry and tours of Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore (including combination tours with other attractions) and book online from this Viator site.
Once you are done visiting the Basilica look around at the front of Piazza and there you will see the Peace Column that’s created by Carlo Maderno. At the back of the Basilica there is another well-known Piazza ‘Dell’Esquilino’ and at its heart is an old pink granite obelisk that’s sourced from the Augustus Mausoleum.
Open Hours
The Basilica is open every day from 7.00 a.m. to 6.45 p.m. on weekdays. On Sundays and holidays the basilica is open from 9.30 a.m. to 12.00 a.m. Latin Solemn High Mass is on Sundays at 10 a.m. …it’s a beautiful experience to catch the mass here as the choir is traditional and excellent.
You can visit the Santa Maggiore any day and it will bewitch you but obviously the best (and most crowded) day to visit will be August 5th or the Miracle of the Snow day. Read the history section of this article to understand its deep association with miraculous snowfall. Since 1983 Santa Maria Maggiore celebrated Miracle of the Snow or the Miracolo Della Neve. Beautiful white petals, light and heavenly music are used to create the dazzling vision of snow in August. Avoid visiting in the holy week as the church will have restricted access and naturally prayer hours are apt to be longer.
Location & Conveyance
The basilica stands on the square with a similar name; Piazza dell’Esquilino. It’s very near the Termini railway station (this is accessed by both metro lines A and B). After exiting Termini station search for the street called Via Cavour and walk straight till you find the beautiful basilica. The bus lines C3, 16, 70, 71, 360, 649 and 714 service this area
There is a souvenir store just near the building which sells pamphlets and books besides religious gift items like medallions, crosses, crystals etc. Drop in if in case you need written guidance about the basilica or a remembrance.
You can visit many important Roman attractions that are near the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica. Some of them are the National Roman museum, the Diocletian baths and the Santa Maria degli Angeli Martiri.
Another wonderful yet lesser known attraction is the Porta Maggiore (a gate in the Aurelian walls of Rome) a secretive archaeological site that contains a buried Basilica. The Porta Maggiore was the main access to get to the basilica saint Maria maggiore in the past. The buried basilica has 3 naves, apse and multiple stucco structures and a very mysterious air that have given rise to many ghost and black magic stories associated with the site.
Once you are done with sightseeing you can pop into some of the nice restaurants nearby like the Birreria Marconi, La Terrazza Dei Papi, Nipotino del Solitario etc. and for something sweet try the L Orso Bianco that’s just 500 meters away.
Address: Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome,
Email: [email protected]; Official Website
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.